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7-Plus-NGM Digest September 2006
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Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2006 21:00:18 -0400
From: Arno Martens
Subject: BR 52 for 1/8 scale
Hubert,
for a friend, Russell Dunn is looking for drawings and castings for a BR 52 for 1.5" (sorry, not narrow gauge ).
Through Svend Aage, whom you undoubtedly met at Schakendorf, Russell found out that Richard Gomersall from Brighouse and Halifax Model Engineers has such a loco and ran it at Schackendorf.
An English friend of mine was able to get us a phone number of the Secretary of the Society and Russell made contact.
This English friend thought that he once had seen a catalogue from a German supplier who may offer drawings and/or castings for a BR 52.
Do you know anything more about that. Have you seen some at Sinsheim?
Sorry I missed you at Train Mountain but when ever I asked others if they had seen you they told me that "were here just a few minutes ago".
--
Regards,
Arno
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Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2006 21:54:20 -0700
From: "Daniel F. Morris"
Subject: Alan Shifley's Mini Meet Pixs
To All:
I have just posted pixs from Alan Shifley's Annual Mini Meet held August the 26th, 2006. It was reported that a good sized crowd was there to ride on Alan's choice private track. The weather was warm and clear which allowed fro great railroading for all those who attended. Thanks to Alan for sharing these pixs with us.
Check out these and more at "Live Steaming In The Pacific Northwest"
Enjoy!
Dan Morris
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 17:13:32 -0000
From: "narrowbend"
Subject: Rust in Gas Tank
I bought an old gas hydraulic sometime back and let it sit up last year as I recovered from an injury. This summer I discovered the gas tank full of rust. I first cleaned the lines but the glass bowl filter soon filled again with rust. It is not easy to remove the tank as it is welded to the same brackets as the hydraulic oil tank.
The fill tube and base is removable giving a 4" diameter cleaning port.
Questions:
| 1) | Best way to remove current rust? I've started working with emery paper and steel wool, but it is slow going. |
| 2) | Is there any kind of sealant I can put in the tank than will allow use at a meet by this weekend? |
| 3) | Next winter I will probably build a replacement tank to fit a better spot on the locomotive(underneath, like the prototype).
Is there a better material than steel to work with? |
Thank you in advance for any input.
Michael Lavrich, Bend, OR
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 19:48:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: James Clarke
Subject: Re: Rust in Gas Tank
Micheal,Hello. is there any possible way to cut the old tank off leaving the Welded brackets and put a newer tank that in the furtue could be replaced if needed???????
just a 1/10 centh worth.
JWC TX
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 20:13:22 -0700
From: Dennis Dalla-Vicenza
Subject: Re: Rust in Gas Tank
Michael
Look for a gas tank repair place that uses a product that coats the tank's insides. Not too expensive and usually a quick fix. There is one just north of the border from you in Aldergrove BC.
http://www.leakersgastanks.com/ will get you started on a google search.
There has to be one closer to you.
kind regards
Dennis, living in Port Alberni BC, Canada
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 20:16:18 -0700 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Rust
There is a product to seal a fuel tank on most anything but the problem is it must be turned to have the sealer cover the entire tank. Its avalible I think at the local automotive paint store. If you go to the local Home Depot store they should have a product called Naval Jelly which removes rust.
Boyd at Train Mountain enjoying the nice Oregon weather as we speak.
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:32:47 -0600
From: "Mike Decker"
Subject: Re: Rust in Gas Tank
Hi Michael:
I did the same job on my mini-crawler's gas tank last summer. I got a "kit" from Eastwood for cleaning and sealing a motorcycle-sized gas tank. You might be able to find one at a large auyo parts store. It will take a couple days for the cleaning and drying of the sealant, so you might not get it done by this week end, but it works well.
Best,
Mike Decker
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 21:40:40 -0700
From: Dennis Dalla-Vicenza
Subject: Re: Rust
Damn they lowered the qualifications again I see!
Hopefully we'll see each other next June.
kind regards
Dennis, living in Port Alberni BC, Canada
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 22:02:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: mes
Subject: Re: Rust
Here is a lengthy explanation but I found it works well...
All of these are good ways to temporally fix your tank. Rust is an oxidizer from the collection of moisture in the tank from condensation of the space between the level of the gasoline and the top of the tank. After condensating for a period of time water forms at the bottom of the tank since water is heavier than gas. This forms rust at the top and the bottom.
Coating of the tank is good but it has to be performed perfectly to be successful. If the tank is dirty or wet it will not stick. The tank also has to be completely covered. If the task is not completed correctly the coating could peel and clog the filters. With some expense some manufacturers make custom bladders for fuel tanks with some modification done to the fill point. I have found it best to completely remove the tank even if you have to remove the hydraulic tank and fill it with rust stripper. I get it from a company called OAKITE. Read the directions and use properly with proper personal protection (gloves, face shield, etc). Let it soak over night and drain in the morning. Neutralize the rust stripper to de-activate the acid and rinse well with de-ionized water (can purchase at the store). A second application may be required so inspect the tank before putting back into service. Dry thoroughly. Again!! Dry thoroughly.
I go down to the welding supply and get a bottle of nitrogen and let that bleed into the tank, outside on the porch, over night, to insure it is completely dry. The nitrogen will also help prevent it from flash rusting. You may still get a little flash rust. This can be removed with WD-40 (don't use WD-40 if you are going to coat
the tank). Some people just put it in the oven but make sure you have rinsed the entire amount of rust stripper out. You will find the oven will allow flash rust to form because water causes oxidation in it un-pure state (tap water). Now you can coat the tank if you want or just put it back into service. When you are not using the
tank completely drain it and spray a light coat of 2-stroke oil inside to prevent it from rusting. When using the tank make sure you fill the tank before retiring for the day so as the tank cools there is less area to condensate. This care will help prevent you from going through this again.
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 22:22:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: mes
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank coating - from the factory
RED-KOTE® FUEL TANK LINER
STAYS FLEXIBLE - Will never crack or peel off.
ALCOHOL RESISTANT - No expensive come-backs.
BRIGHT COLOR - Both you and the customer can see results.
COVERS RUST - Seals old rust in and prevents future rusting.
SEALS LEAKS - Gets the multitude of pin-holes you can't find.
Damon Industries, Inc. P.O. Box 2120 Alliance, Ohio 44601 E-mail: Rad@DamonQ.com
Phone: 330-821-5310 Fax: 330-821-6355 Toll Free in North America: 800-362-9850
Red-Kote® is a new polymer coating developed by Damon Chemical. Red-Kote® is resistant to gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol and other fuel additives. Its major use is to seal leaking fuel tanks. Solvents such as methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, methylene chloride and propylene oxide will completely dissolve the polymer. Other industrial solvents will affect the coating but, not completely dissolve it.
Red-Kote® is easy to use if the directions are followed closely. It seals the multitude of small leaks that often form where the straps wrap around the tank. You fix the obvious leaks and Red-Kote® seals the rest. Contrary to what some people will tell you, rust does form inside gas tanks. The cause is condensation and water in gas. Red-Kote® seals rust under the coating so it cannot flake off to plug fuel-line filters or
cause engine damage.
Further rusting is reduced also. Red-Kote® is a safe and sure way to solve your customer's problems and increase your own profits. Since most of the time is spent in drying you can be doing other work while Red-Kote® makes you money.
Red-Kote® also offers the advantage of not interfering with the reinstallation of the tank.
External coating, especially fiberglass, are sometimes too thick to allow reinstallation with the original straps and bolts. Some of the specific advantages of Red- Kote® are as follows:
| 1. | The coating is very flexible and does not crack as do some of the others. This gives the
repair a much longer life. Tanks coated in 1984 are still doing well.
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| 2. | The polymer was specifically chosen because of its tight adhering qualities. In comparison to some other coatings, Red-Kote® does not peel off even when the metal is bent. This protects
against loosening of the coating by vibration or denting of the tank. |
| 3. | Red-Kote® is resistant to methanol. In fuels with a high percentage of methanol the coating is bleached, but remains tightly bonded to the metal. In 1985 the federal government allowed 5%
methanol in fuel. Standard Oil's ice-guard is 0.5% methanol. The cheap gas tank anti-freezes are methanol. (The good ones are isopropanol.) Some gas tank liners are dissolved by methanol into sticky lumps and strings that plug the fuel line. This will not happen with Red-Kote®. |
| 4. | Red-Kote® dries faster than many other sealers saving you time. You can reduce time further by thinning with Methyl Ethyl Ketone and using two thin coats instead of one thick coat. |
| 5. | Red-Kote® levels very well. You will not get a wide variation in thickness as with some other coatings. |
| 6. | Red-Kote® is thicker and usually requires only one coat as opposed to two coats for many other coatings. Holes up to 1/32nd may be coated and sealed safely. Rust is sealed in so that it cannot flake off. |
| 7. | The bright red color is easily visible to you and the customer. You can be sure you didn't miss a spot and the customer can see you did something. Some coatings are almost invisible. The new dye does not leach into gasoline (turning it pink) when the vehicle is not used for long periods of time. |
Packaging: Red-Kote® is available in one quart metal cans packed 9 per case or in one gallon metal cans packed 1 per case. It is backed by our guarantee and our over 53 years of service to the radiator industry.
Directions:
| 1. | Empty all fuel from tank. |
| 2. | Remove sending unit, float, feed lines, filters, anything that could be clogged by the
coating. |
| 3. | Remove any loose rust by tapping on the tank with a rubber mallet or by tumbling with a piece of chain in the tank. Flush out debris. |
| 4. | Clean tank by steaming for about 15 minutes.
Boil out is not recommended because the high alkalinity removes the tin from the terne plate.
A standard water soluble degreasing chemical works well. |
| 5. | Any leaks larger than 1/32nd of an inch should be repaired by soldering or your usual method. |
| 6. | Make sure that the tank is completely dry before continuing. This is very important.
Without a blower, drying may take up to 12 hours.
The use of a blower to circulate air through the tank will cut the time to an hour or so. The fastest method is to drain the tank for 5 minutes and then pour 1 pint of Methyl Ethyl Ketone into the tank, slosh thoroughly and pour out. Repeat with a second pint of M.E.K. and you are ready to use Red-Kote® immediately. Do not re-use the first pint of M.E.K., instead let it evaporate safely away from flames or sparks. The second pint of M.E.K. may be used as the first pint on the next job. One quart of M.E.K. will only absorb up to 3 ounces of water. This is why it should not be reused. |
| 7. | Cover all open holes in the tank by plugging or covering with tape, except the one to be used for pouring in the coating. |
| 8. | Pour one to two quarts of Red-Kote® into the tank and cover the last opening. You can get by with one quart on tanks of about 12 gallons or less. We recommend two quarts for larger tanks to
make sure you get the coating to flow behind all the baffles. |
| 9. | Tip the tank onto each side and slosh the coating around to completely cover the inside.
Use a rocking motion rather than shaking. It is important to do a thorough job or you may miss parts of the tank behind baffles. |
| 10. | Drain out the excess coating and cover tightly to save for reuse. The best method is to
stand the tank up with a corner drain hole over a can to collect the excess as it drips out. It is very important that you do not leave puddles in the tank. |
| 11. | Open all tank openings to allow the best air flow. Air dry for 8 to 24 hours. When cured there will be almost no solvent smell left in the tank. If the coating is not completely cured before
fuel is added the curing process will be stopped.
Do not use open flame or an electric element for drying or an explosion may result. Do not blow air into the tank until at least 60 minutes of drying time have passed. Using air sooner may cause bubbles may form in the coating. |
| 12. | If the leaks or rust are severe it is a good idea to use a second coat after the first coat dries completely. |
| 13. | Reassemble and install the tank on the vehicle. |
| 14. | For clean-up use methyl ethyl ketone, acetone or a quality lacquer thinner with no alcohol in it. |
Tips & Hints:
Do not leave the can open to the air as it will thicken or form a skin on top. When Red-Kote® is reused after pouring it back out of a gas tank it may need thinning before reuse. Red-Kote® may be thinned with M.E.K. or Acetone. Do not use lacquer thinner to dilute Red-Kote. For removing water from the tank prior to coating you may use acetone. Acetone absorbs much more water than M.E.K. and is less expensive. We do not sell acetone. Most shops are punching a hole in a corner of the tank to aid in draining it completely. Then they solder in a drain cock. Do not solder or weld on the tank after it has been coated. The coating will turn to ash if heated above 250°F.
Some of our customers have reported a way to speed up the process significantly. They are thinning Red-Kote® about 20 - 25% with M.E.K. (1 part M.E.K. to 4 or 5 parts Red-Kote®). This allows the Red-Kote® to dry in only a couple of hours in many cases. They also report that using air to dry the inside does not cause the bubbles that form when straight Red-Kote® is dried with air. You will get a much thinner coating.
We are told that two of these thin coats still take less time to dry than one thick coat.
Red-Kote® does not stick well to plastic tanks or to plastic parts inside a gas tank. Do not coat over other coatings. Remove old coatings completely first, using M.E.K. or other solvent. Call us if you have a problem. The two most common problems we see are:
| 1) | Not completely drying the tank of water before
coating. Red-Kote® will not stick to wet metal.
When it dries it will peel off in sheets. |
| 2) | Not allowing the Red-Kote® to dry completely.
If Red-Kote® is not completely dry or has puddles left it will form strings or flecks in the gas.
These may get past the fuel filter and plug carburetors or injectors. Puddles of Red-Kote® left behind baffles or in corners may never dry completely. This is because a skin forms over the puddles and prevents drying underneath. Once the skin ruptures Red-Kote® forms strings in the gas.
Damon Industries guarantees the product only, not your application of it. After application to over 50,000 cars we have seen 7 problems. All were application errors as described above. We have never seen failure due to ageing. Both of these conditions are prevented easily by proper drying. All problems are correctable by stripping out the Red-Kote® with M.E.K. and recoating. We recommend that you tell your customers not to use fuel additives containing methanol or methyl alcohol.
We have had instances of methanol pulling the red dye out of Red-Kote® which turns the gas red.
This has not caused any damage to our knowledge.
Usually only "cheap" additives contain methanol.
Good products contain isopropanol or other solvents. Most engine warranties are voided by the use of methanol anyway.
Do not rush the job. In many cases it will take more than one day to do a job worthy of your time and guarantee. |
Red-Kote.pub - 3/14/04
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Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 21:32:59 EDT
From: Jubilatede@aol.com
Subject: Re: GRAMPS Narrow Gauge Tank Car
List,
I know I have seen a few of these tank cars around on the internet.
I am thinking of the possibility of an auxiliary water car for my mogul. Can anyone point me in the way of drawings? I'm not a stickler for details so a front and side elevation would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Cam Wilkes
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Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2006 15:54:32 +0200
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: Re: BR52 Plaene / BR 52 for 1/8 scale
Hello Russel,
Arno Martens had sent your question also to the 7-plus-ngm-list, and I had placed this questions to both live-steam-lists, I'm on here in germany.
Sadly, not much came out, only the information, that one guy in Austria - who is a friend of the steamclub in Graz - seems to be building a class 52.
I looked around in my library and found a 1:43.5 drawing of a class 52 with "Steifrahmentender" (sorry, cannot translate that :-( ). It shows both sides, front and end view.
I can copy/scan this and send it to you.
All the best
Hubert from Germany
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Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 10:28:52 EDT
From: Jubilatede@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine #14
A quick PS here on the subject of the Fitchburg Northern Mogul. For the newbies in the hobby, this classic is the work of Tom Rhodes of the Adirondack Live Steamers club , a great club and track hidden in the woods near Saratoga Springs, N.Y. was up there yesterday for the first time this year. (It's tough to get a bit old and infirm; didn't see the FN engine but Tom seemed to be ok. Can't leave this topic without mentioning Russ Steves' interpretation of this fine little engine = cannot recall the number assigned but she sparkled.
High percentage of her weight is in polished brass. As I recall, she steamed a bit better than her prototype. Plug: If you are coming east, plan to visit the Adirtondack Club; this is one fine set up. Hills, Valleys ; lakes,streams, indoor plumbing! Flush tooilets! Plenty of bushes for the pioneer types!
This track is a little tough to find so get an address and phone number from one of the hobby magazines.Call for directions: it's just a bit off route 50 but don;t trust me- I'll get you lost.
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Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 23:26:49 -0000
From: "John Ray"
Subject: Converting to 2-1/2" scale
Hi All,
As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I am in the process of converting from 15" gauge to 7-1/2" gauge, 2-1/2" scale.
Though I've layed large amounts of track in the past, I've never worked with panel track before (which seems to be the dominant method for of building in 7-1/2" gauge) and have a few questions, first, is there a good published primer on building with panel track? Also, in the first section of track I am laying, due to trees and buildings, it is necessary for a curve to start out at a 96 foot radius and end in a 65 foot radius. How is this done with panel track?
My rail is all steel, how tight a radius can be formed with steel rail without first
rolling it?
Thanks in advance for your help,
John Ray
P.S.
A couple of you have contacted me about the old equipment.
If you are interested in rolling stock, tools, or track materials, please check out the for sale page at:
http://www.cvry.org/15_gauge_for_sale.htm
Please use the contact listed on the page, and NOT THIS GROUP, for information about any of the items. Also, please note, the items are located about 20 miles south of San Jose, California. Transporting could be an issue for some of you.
Thank you,
John Ray
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Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 20:29:21 -0500
From: "Rick White"
Subject: Re: Converting to 2-1/2" scale
John,
You do not have to use track panels with 7.5 inch gauge. I was talking to a live steamer today who has five acres and is planning on putting in 2500 to 3000 ft of track (he has the rail only at this point) and will NOT be using track panels. He is familiar with track panels as used on a couple of live steam clubs.
You do not have to use panels like a lot of clubs do, ie making lots of panels and then take out to the site and install. I make one panel, install it, meausure the rail off set to 1/32 of an inch, then make another panel with that off set. All rails drilled in shop and nothing drilled or cut on site.
Since I use aluminum rail, I cannot tell you how to handle the steel rail. I have some steel rail that I use straight and once tried to use where I needed a curve (75 ft radius), no luck. I really think that steel rail has to be bent ahead of time.
Rick White
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2006
From: "Hannes Paling"
Subject: Re: Avonside 2065
General view - Plate work, cab, bunker & tank
Right hand Cylinder - Cylinder mounted on frame, motion next
Climbing into the cab - Hand rails and step
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 14:55:03 -0000
From: "Robert McKillip"
Subject: Darjeeling 0-4-0ST Drawings
Hi All,
I am a new member to this group. I am looking for an interesting prototype to model in live steam for our 7 1/2 track in Windsor NS Canada. I would like to get ahold of drawings for the Sharp, Stewart 0-4-0ST locos used by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. Does anyone have drawings or can suggest where I might find them?
Our railway is run by the Atlantic Model Engineering Society and is called the Trecothic Creek and Windsor Railway.
Bill
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 16:06:48 -0000
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: Re: Darjeeling 0-4-0ST Drawings
Hello Bill,
here in Germany, their is one 3 3/4 model of this engine running ;-)
It was built by Rudi Erteld, who is a member of the group "Die Bockerlbahner" (cannot translate that).
Check out their website under http://www.diebockerlbahner.de/ or view the special page for this engine under
http://www.diebockerlbahner.de/loks/rudi/rudi4.htm
I suggest you to contact the Bockerlbahner under hans@diebockerlbahner.de
If they have problems with your language, than please contact me.
Greetings from Germany
Hubert
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 09:48:25 -0700 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Track
Steel rail has to be bent to the required radius unless its just a very slight curve to align a piece with another. It makes curves with aluminum nicer if they have been bent but not really needed. As for rail end offset I think that at Train Mountain and others we use around six inches as if they are not you will have trouble with a low spot as there will be one wheel on both joints at the same time also must be on a tie. There is a video out about track laying at TM, one of the nice things about panel track is that instead of being on your knees for every tie you are on a stool or standing while screwing each tie down which saves considerable stress on your knees and body. Been there done that for miles at TM so I could not imagine doing everything on the ground other than joining track panels. The Burnaby club has a real neat way to put rail into ties when using bar stock and works well for them if that is what you might be using also. One of the nice things about steel rail is that along with plastic ties doesn't move after its laid, if you are in a place where you have frost that helps a lot.
Now back to that laying of track, lots of friends helps, but the food and beverage bill is high, but again think of the friends you are gaining or loosing after working them laying track. Have fun enjoy come visit us at TM sometime.
Boyd Butler
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 09:52:53 -0700 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Track Too
Oh yes bending straight aluminum panel track, two people one on each end with hammers and holding the same rail, let the panel hang down, now give it a jerk, use the hammers to move the ties in on the top towards center, tap them letting the the lower end stay where they are until you have a force curve due to the ties being forced together on the upper rail that you are holding, works great as then the ties will hold it in that curve.
Boyd.
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:18:03 -0000
From: "Tom C"
Subject: Sept. Pics from the Sandy Ridge
I put 4 pics in our folder in the files section and saw they were the large size so took them out and put in smaller ones. You will see 4 links that won't work. Sorry for the goof up.
We have had problems with #521 not keeping the brakes off going around curves. Jack had enough so we flipped the car over and he went to work on the brake hangers. They would drag on the rod that held them
to the body so he made the opening bigger so hopefully they won't hang up anymore. Those shop trucks sure come in handy!
Tom C.
#521 B end - car upside down to work on brakes
#521 brake leavers - dead lever and more
#521 on shop trucks
#521 truck shot - The truck again
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 18:36:45 -0700
From: "James Hoback"
Subject: Re: Sept. Pics from the Sandy Ridge
As always, nice work Tom. I don't see a brake cylinder in the photos. What type of cylinder do you use?
Thanks,
Jim Hoback
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 04:06:24 -0000
From: "wjamief"
Subject: Re: going without track panels
At the PB&JRR, we've so far put down track without panels. Aluminum, but we do the same thing with steel at Bitter Creek:
http://www.bittercreekwesternrr.org/060520.html
Back at the PB&J, we just join some tens of feet of rail (up to 120 once), place as we like, then start attaching ties. Seems only the tightest of turns (e.g. 35 foot radius or tighter) require pre-bent rail.
http://www.jf2.com/pbjrr/060701.html
Jamie
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 17:20:26 -0000
From: "Tom C"
Subject: Re: Sept. Pics from the Sandy Ridge
Jim,
NONE, hand brakes only.
Tom C.
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 17:05:32 -0400
From: Arno Martens
Subject: Re: going without track panels
Those ties look as if they are made from plastic wood.
What are their actual sizes?
They are selling plastic wood here like "dimensional" lumber.
A 2" x 2" is actually 1.4" x 1.4" and a 2" x 3", 1.56" x 2.54" !
--
Arno
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Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 02:13:14 -0000
From: "Dave"
Subject: revisit railroad ties
Would like to ask everyone's opinions here. I've visited a handfull of live steam railroads and still hope to get one started on my property.
Looking at ways to control costs I see people using all sorts of different sized material for ties. Where I live termites are awful, so using wooden ties doesn't seem the best choice for myself. I like the idea of this engineered recycled plastic lumber for ties that will outlast the railroad.
While in Home Depot this evening back in there lumber area I was looking to see what kind of plastic products they carried. I saw this product Veranda 32" square Balusters SG originally $2.29 now $1.00 each made by universal forest products, it appears to be 1.4" square. Comes out to .50 cents a tie, which doesn't seem bad, but is the 1.4" large enought? What is everyones thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
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Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 22:00:52 -0500
From: "Rick White"
Subject: Re: revisit railroad ties
Dave,
Large enough depends on several factors.
What weight locos and equipment (including riders) will you be riding on your rails.
What size rail (1" Aluminum?).
How close together will the ties be.
I have seen small railroads with 25 ft radius curves and 200 lb loco with cars that hold only two people use the system you describe with 28 to 30 ties per 10 ft track panel.
Works very well. But, you most likely would not want to see a loco with 400 lbs per axle on that track, would find all the soft spots.
And, it depends on the road base under the ties.
An excellent stiff road base can make up for weak ties.
But, soft and uneven ground will stress ties and larger ties are then called for.
You could also consider concrete ties, but that is a lot of work, so I like your idea of plastic ties.
Just keep the heavy equipment away and you should be fine.
Myself, I like seeing the 400 lbs per axle equipment.
Rick White
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Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:55:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: dave schoeffler
Subject: Re: revisit railroad ties
Dave--
I'm familiar with the material you describe. I think it would be fine . . . given the conditions that Rick White mentions.
I use BOTH a ballaster size tie material as well as a larger 2" x 3" tie on my backyard rail. It's been two years. Both are holding up well. Can't tell any difference in riding over one vs. the other. A good 1" minus ballast helps to "lock-in" the smaller tie . . . even on curves.
My disclaimer is that I'm using a small, battery loco at 100 lbs per axle.
Dave Schoeffler
Temecula, Ca
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Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 18:44:24 -0000
From: "daveschoeffler12"
Subject: Temecula Short Line Pics
Our backyard rail is called the Temecula Short Line. It's really backyard and its really short . . . about 250 feet. But, we've managed to include all the token needs of a railroad. Here's some pics . . .
1. A 11' tunnel is ready to receive the #3 consist
2. A front view of #3 near the mouth of the tunnel.
3. #3 exits the tunnel
4. A side view from the tunnel
5. The authomated crossing signal keeps it safe
6. The new depot area
7. Another view of the depot area
8. Inside and outside loops merge
9. The marketing program
10. The harbor area
11. Start of 80' trestle through pistachio trees
12. End of trestle near depot
With another trestle, I could expand another 150'. Don't look for it soon though . . . ugh
Dave Schoeffler
Temecula, Ca
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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 01:18:57 -0000
From: "Dave"
Subject: Re: Temecula Short Line Pics
Dave,
Looks excellent, thanks for sharing your photos, very inspirational.
Dave
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Date: 29 Sep 2006 01:57:56 -0000
From: 7-plus-NGM@yahoogroups.com
Subject: New file uploaded to 7-plus-NGM
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 7-plus-NGM group.
A end 9-25-06
Body bolster truss rods up close
side view of A end 9-26-06
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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 20:13:16 -0700
From: "James Hoback"
Subject: Re: New file uploaded to 7-plus-NGM
Hi Tom,
Again, thanks for the photos of your construction projects. A question comes to mind while looking at the support rods running over the center sills, through an inner sill, and then to the outside. How do you determine where to drill those angled holes in the inner sill. I have tried to envision doing that but I'm not certain how you dermine where to drill so the angles are correct.
Thanks,
Jim
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Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2006 16:36:35 -0000
From: "John Ray"
Subject: Thanks for the track info
I've been away for about a week, so I didn't get a chance to say thanks to those of you who took the time to give me your inputs on track building. There have been some other diversions, but this weekend I will begin the track layiong process. For now, I have decided to do a mix of panel and free hand track laying. I'll use panels for tangents and constant radius curves, and free-hand for those weird locations where I have reducing radius curves or other oddities.
I look forward to your continued support.
Thanks again,
John
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Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 09:02:12 -0500
From: "Tom Casper"
Subject: RE: Digest Number 1503
Jim,
Hi, You know, that was my problem on the first couple of cars I built. I tried using an 18 inch drill bit and using the end support bracket as a drill guide and that got me close. As our Cad drawings don't show the holes
I stumbled onto a neat way to line it up. I stuck the long bit in the truss rod hole and then tried to line up the angle. I found it was not easy so I grabbed the truss rod and clamped the middle flat to the outside edge with
the angle up and then kept the drill aligned with this and it worked sweet.
You only have to worry about going to close to the body bolster which I did on one rod. I had to chip some wood out of the spacer that holds the big truss rod shoes on the bolster. I have some more shots of the car with
paint on I will upload soon.
Later:
Tom Casper
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