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7-Plus-NGM Digest November 2007
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:09:40 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: Climax class A drawings
Would anyone have this magazine I could purchase? I've tried the publisher and they are sold out. I checked the auction sites and none are listed.
Thanks
The Modelmaker's Notebook: A 22-ton Class A Climax Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette, November/December 1996 page 64, by Al Armitage.
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Rick Taylor
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Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 17:54:49 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: Train Mountain Support Request
Hello all,
yesterday I received the following mail from Quentin Breen of Train Mountain, and today I
got the permission, to post this to our list and on the website.
Hubert from Germany
Letter in Support of County Conditional Use Permit
All:
Train Mountain has recently entered into an agreement with Friends of Train Mountain that anticipates the construction of up to 20 miles of additional track on the northern portion of Train Mountain property. We have already begun flagging andf clearing right of way in preparation for laying almost 4 mile of track during 2008. However, Train Mountain needs and additional Conditional Use Permit ("CUP") from Klamath County to lay additional track on heretofore untracked land. The same application also consolidates all prior CUP's into one documetn and map to facilitate Train Mountain moving forward during it's third decade of operation.
A hearing on our CUP application is scheduled for November 16 at 9:00 AM at the Klamath County Courthouse. While we know of no opposition, nonetheless we would like to see a flurry of support letters to the Klamath County Planning Dept. in advance of that hearing as evidence of member support for Train Mountain. It is for this that I ask your help.
A suggested form of support letter in two versions is attached. One is a PDF that you can simply print, sign and mail. The second is a word version that you can edit, print and mail. Alternatively, you can fill in the word version and e-mail it to lwilson@co.klamath.or.us. It is all right if different members of your household want to send separate support letters. Even better than a flurry of letters and e.mails would be a snowstorm.
My thanks in advance for your help and support.
Quentin
[Links removed, because the scheduled hearing now is in the past.]
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Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 10:17:44 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Adhesives
Ok folks sometime ago I was on the net all worried about the fact that Loctite 303 would not bond two pieces of aluminum together, I just got done with JB Weld, a product that has been around for years. Now the test was bond two blocks together and then try to break the bond, the Loctite broke without any kind of pressure. Now after 24 hr cure with the JB Weld product I used a 24 inch pipe wrench and the best I could do with the same setup in the same vise is turn the vise and it never did fail even after I use the same tool as a hammer. Just though that I would pass that along.Boyd Butler SE Washington state where its still raining wish that the west side would keep it too.
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Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 18:20:18 -0500
From: Arno Martens
Subject: Re: Adhesives
Thanks for that feedback on "actually done it".
Saved that one.
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Regards,
Arno
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Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 17:37:54 -0700
From: Chuck
Subject: Re: Adhesives
As I understand it 303 is a pressure activated locking compound. It is not designed to set like epoxie. The JB IS designed to set and if I remember has a tensile strength of over 6000psi. (aluminum runs 20000 to 45000psi) With a large enough area it will hold a LOT! If the metal surface is clean and scuffed up with sand paper you can get bond strength over 6000psi.
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 11:16:41 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Adhesives
Ok folks, the stuff that I used from Loctite was called Fixmaster, fast cure epoxy, the number is not on the can and it is not pressure activated. I thought that it was 303 so sorry bout that.
Whatever it is it does not work with aluminum, it was roughed up with a grinder just like with the JB Weld, thanks for the pressure info too, didn't read the specs but it will work for my grills along with cap screws to help hold it in place.
Boyd Butler
SE Washington state where it finally quit raining, now its supposed to snow.
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 06:13:15 -0700
From: "Scott Hahn"
Subject: Adhesives question
I'm wanting to bond a ZA-12 (zinc aluminum alloy) wheel to a steel axle.Any recommendation for an adhesive in that situation?
Thanks.
Scott
Colorado Springs
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:29:01 -0600
From: "Bill Laird"
Subject: RE: Adhesives question
If it is a press fit, use some LocTite Bearing Seal. After mounting, I would also drill a 1/8" hole through the wheel hub and the axle and drive an 1/8" roll pin or taper pin in the hole to make sure nothing moves.
Bill Laird
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 08:57:59 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Bonding
I would us the JB Weld but make sure that you rough up both surfaces, bearing seal is not a bonding agent that would do more that prevent a bearing that is not a press fit, slight wear so it just slides in to not rotate. The JB once cured is done, you will have a permanent fix that probably only destroying the aluminum piece will result. I now remember using it about fifteen years ago to install bearing races in an aluminum truck side frame and once done there was no going back and they are still running. The bearing was not roughed up either just a very smooth and shiny surface.
Boyd, with the standard just before the holidays cold and cough, good excuse to work in the shop.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 17:32:20 +0000
From: Roy Stevens
Subject: RE: Adhesives question
I'd use a 0.003" press fit with red loctite. I've yet to encounter a metal to metal bonding agent isn't temporary, especially when it will be subject to both compressive and shearing forces like what is encountered at a wheel-axle joint. But a good press fit is forever. I bent my 12 ton press trying to install a 0.006" press fit, ended up using the 20 ton at work, I still haven't repaired mine.
Roy
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:19:59 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Bonding
At work we have used JB Weld on many things and have had very little problems with it. One of the troubles with shear or debonding of two items sometimes is taken care of by using a mechanical device such as a rivet or bolt to prevent the edges from starting to separate. We had this trouble when bonding aluminum leading edges to wings years ago and Grumman had trouble with the trailing edges of there control surfaces so they used a rivet at each end to prevent them from separating . Press fit is great but too much of a press fit or too tight can cause other problems with the id of a part being affected or the part that its pressed into cracking due to expansion or stress.
Boyd
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Date: 22 Nov 2007 01:45:23 -0000
From: ncngrr
Subject: New file uploaded to 7-plus-NGM
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of your 7-plus-NGM group.
WVB Wheels & Axles/wheel & axle.pdf
Description : D&RGW 6200-series flat car wheel & axle dwg
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 19:00:46 -0700
From: "Scott Hahn"
Subject: Wheel/axle bonding
I created a folder in the "Files" section called "WVB Wheels & Axles". In it, I placed a drawing of a 2-1/2" scale D&RGW 6200-series flat car wheel/axle combination. I deviated slightly from actual D&RGW drawings to aid in producing repeatable wheel/axle sets. You'll notice that I put a stop on the axle and counterbored the wheel so that the wheels won't be able to move inwards on the axle during normal use. I'm assuming that any tendency for the wheels to move would be inward due to the taper of the wheel tread as it tracks down the rails.
On my first attempt to press the wheel onto the axle, I bent the steel axle at the middle (between the two long tapers). I only had 0.0015" difference between the steel axle and the zinc-aluminum (ZA-12) wheel. (Actually, I was quite surprised that the steel axle bent before the ZA-12 wheel casting failed.)
At any rate, my next thought was to merely bond the wheels onto the axles without a press fit and they'd stay put.
Is that wishful thinking?
BTW, the axle diameters at the wheel are nominally 1.125" (main bore) and 1.250" (counterbore). The thinnest part of the axle (at the middle, between the two long tapers) is about .833".
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Scott Hahn
Woodmen Valley Backshop
Colorado Springs
PS. Happy Thanksgiving!
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 18:35:08 -0800 (PST)
From: MERLE MILLER
Subject: Re: Wheel/axle bonding
Scott:
Why are your axles tapered, ... with the smallest diameter in the middle????
Why go to all that trouble?
Why have anything but a straight axle in the first place?
I just use two set screws in the hub to hold each (no press) wheel in place on the 3/4" dia. axle shaft and have no trouble with wheels coming loose or moving. Even my grand scale driver wheels are this way with no problems there.
What kind of life are you getting out of Zn-Al wheels? What diameter are they?
Merle.
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 19:45:43 -0700
From: "Scott Hahn"
Subject: RE: Wheel/axle bonding
My goal is to replicate, as best I can, what the prototype did.
Consequently, the axles are tapered in the middle.
A friend of mine has been using ZA-12 wheels on his 1-1/2" scale riding cars for the past 15 years with no problem.
The wheels on D&RGW 6200-series flat cars are 26" in diameter, so these wheels are 5.410".
Scott
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 11:15:18 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Boyd A Butler"
Subject: Wheels
From my experience at Train Mountain watching the various ways to do things some things work and some don't always. Bonding wheels sometimes will work but not always or forever.Set screws seem to at times work loose for ever what reason. The most common way and works the best is the interference press fit. Another way that works every time is to weld the wheel to the axle. The set screw way will work better if the wheel is keyed to the axle so it wont rotate. As far as the taper of the tread holding the wheel on it wont. You have flange ways in switches and crossovers to deal with these also place stress on the method used to hold the wheel onto the axle.
We have one fellow who with very good luck, have heard of no failures, is using some kind of nylon/plastic/composite material what I don't know for his wheels. The type of work he does allows him access to scrap of this material, he even uses it on riding cars.
One of the down falls of anything other than good cast iron or steel is wear, aluminum will wear rather fast, another thing that I saw happen on a fellows layout is he used aluminum wheels on aluminum rail, they would climb right off due to the fact it wouldn't slip like steel to aluminum would and derail.
For what its worth department, tapered axles and perfect looking wheels are nice, but try seeing them to enjoy that fact while its sitting on the rail or running. Lots of work for not much gain other than the person who built it knowing they are perfectly scale. I would rather put the detail into what can be seen and enjoyed, on the car or side frames of the trucks.
Have a wonderful time enjoying the hobby, go out tomorrow spend money and have fun with all of the others trying to buy stuff. Or on the other hand stay home work on trains and enjoy yourself for real.
Boyd up here in WA state getting ready to eat turkey and enjoy good friends
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 20:09:41 +0000
From: Roy Stevens
Subject: RE: Wheel/axle bonding
I've been doing press fit with steel, cast, and occasionally aluminum wheels for almost a decade and I have a very hard time believing that you bent an axle with a 0.0015" press fit. Are you sure you don't mean 0.015"? Fifteen thou will certainly bend an axle and do a lot of damage to the bore of a wheel. I have plenty of experience from those days when I was learning, or when I've trusted a bumped caliper. The secret to pressing in axles is to keep your tolerance at 0.003" +/- 0.0005" and don't use a powered press. Take it by hand, round the insertion end to keep it from digging, and release the pressure every 1/8" or so to allow the axle to center itself.
Roy
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 22:37:07 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
I was wanting to make contact with anyone who is currently using 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge aluminum track. I really want to build in the larger scale but can't afford the steel rail and already have over a mile of aluminum track which is not yet on the ground. I know the heavier equipment will require a more rigid roadbed which I am planning on building.
If you are operating larger equipment on aluminum rail please let give me your thoughts on stability and if you think the aluminum can hold up.
Thanks,
--
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 01:12:20 -0500
From: Rich Dean
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
BusBarn,
this all depends on your aluminum-alloy.
A true story.
Many years ago a local club started out to lay track and bought a load of aluminum rail from the usual large miniature RR supplier of the time.
After a while, of weekend runs hauling the public, the railhead became badly washboarded and lumpy. Not worn, so much as just mushed down.
The aluminum alloy used was unknown, but very soft.
We had our own die made at a regional extruder speciyfing 6061-T6 alloy and treatment. Many loads of rail have been run off since.
Aside from normal expected wear, all is well.
Strength is not much of an issue with the typical close crosstie spacing.
I have seen several very large 2.5" scale engines run on aluminum track.
No issues have been raised other than tight in curves.
I am building a 3.3/4" loco myself, but it is not much bigger than a Chloe.
Being an 0-4-0, cornering in curves will wear rail more than anything else.
RichD, Atlanta
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 06:13:31 EST
From: douglasandcj@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Bus Barn, I know of the Aluminum rail that you have and it will not support your 3 3/4" scale locomotive. You need to go another direction but if you still want to use aluminum rail use a good heavy section with proper head radius and the aluminum needs to be 6061 T-6. Most aluminum rail of the era you have is very soft and will not support heavy loads with prototype tie spacing as in 3 3/4" scale. The rail will crush and become wash board and will wear on the gauge face in curves. That rail in addition to being soft weighs
less than 3 lb/ft. This rail may best be used on side tracks if you still want to use it.
I have had made my own die that produces a prototype rail section with proper head radius and gauge face slope, is very strong both in supporting heavy loads but also in wearability and the rail weighs 0.442 lbs/ft. This is very tough rail.
Having said that, every one I know who runs the 3 3/4" scale or 4 " scale equipment will not run on anything less than 8 lbs/ft.steel
Now, what size locomotive and cars are you planning on using? Weight/axel being the main consideration, but rigid wheel base length being the other.
Douglas De Berg
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 09:27:28 -0600
From: dhannah3rd@msn.com
Subject: RE: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
BusBarn;
Maybe I can be of help to you and answer your question.
Back in 1992 I received at the Browning Railroad in Texas, a copy of the Sweet Creek, then called Walco from Australia, a 3-3/4 scale 2-6-0 steam locomotive. The new owner had no place to run it so I allowed him to store and run the locomotive on my track up at Chappell Hill, Texas.
At the time I had two miles of aluminum west coast rail, tied down to 33, 16' ties per ten feet. I had built the Browning Railroad for the purpose of running narrow gauge equipment and that explains the reason for the 16' 2X2 ties. Also the separation between tracks was set for 42' to allow for enough room for the equipment to pass each other.
I was the one that went to the airport pick up the two crates that were air freighted from Western Australia. I can remember having a hell of time trying to unload the crates from the back of the 22' bobtail truck, as my Ford tractor could not lift the crates from the rear of the truck bed.
After uncrating the locomotive and tender, and rolling the new equipment from down under on to the rail, we proceeded to couple up the engine and tender. I decided to recheck the AA Waybill and notice that the engine way bill listed the crate at 1,550 lbs, and the tender crate at 997 lbs. Both weights include the wooden crates.
The locomotive stayed up at the Browning for about two years, then was transferred to a track in Katy Texas, after we discovered that the drivers on the locomotive was eating into the aluminum rail on my 65 foot radius curves. Being that the locomotive was a 2-6-0 and that most of the weight was on the driving wheels and none was on the lead pony truck, I'm sure the drivers were carrying over 400 lbs per axles. I can remember when running at the track at Los Angeles Live Steamers Railroad Museum in 1991 and 1992, that they recommend no more than 400 lbs per axles on aluminum rail.
I have watch many videos of live steam operation in Australia and I believe most of the tracks down under are running on bar stock steel rail.
All the Browning Railroad's track and structures were donated to the Houston Area Live Steamers in 1997, and to this day have provided many miles of enjoyment to the riders once month when the club hauls public.
David Hannah, III
Houston Texas
www.hals.org
www.qstation.org/9944
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 09:41:52 -0800
From: "Allen Dobney"
Subject: New Website for the FC&S
Hi All:
Below is the URL to my new website for my 2.5" scale and G scale railroads. Both are still under construction.
Foots Creek & Southern Railroad
Allen Dobney - President
Foots Creek & Southern Railroad
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 14:25:25 -0600
From: "Bill Laird"
Subject: AV&W Website Updated
The Annetta Valley & Western Railroad Club, located just west of Fort Worth, Texas is home to the largest collection of narrow gauge live steam equipment in Texas. The website www.avwrr.org has lots of pictures of 2 1/2" and 3 3/4" scale locomotives and rolling stock at the track.
We welcome your visit to our web site.
Bill Laird
AV&W RR Webmaster
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 20:54:51 EST
From: douglasandcj@aol.com
Subject: Re: AV&W Website Updated
I don't know if it's me or if I'm just stupid. I could not successfully sign the guest book. Nice site though. I go to C&IG and would love to stop by and run if possible.
Douglas G. De Berg
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 20:33:47 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: RE: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
I want to start out by saying a big THANK YOU to all who replied. I have learned a lot from your replies. After visiting the Sandy Ridge and Clear Lake RR last weekend I am completely sold on the larger scale equipment. I couldn't believe how much better the larger scales worked compared to 1.5" scale. Here are the conclusions I have drawn from your replies;
Track -
Doug is right, my rail is from the disbanded Kansas City Live Steamers and I'm sure isn't the hardest of aluminum but did fine for the club. Somewhat because of sentimental issues and because I can't afford to replace all the rail I'll stick with what I have. I have also been told to keep the ties wide and create a solid roadbed.
Engines and Rolling Stock -
David made some good points concerning maximum axle weight of 400 pounds.
I will try to stay under 300 pounds per axle just to be safe.
It was also suggested keeping the fixed wheel base short which will keep some of the wear off the corners.
Therefore I will not be building any Moguls or Prairies for the line. Another suggestion was using a geared locomotive which would keep the fixed wheelbase short and the weight per axle low.
Therefore I will be building a Class A Climax and using electric drive for the first engine.
Later maybe a Forney for a steam engine.
Since I would like to visit other lines many of which use aluminum rail too, I will keep the weight and length down on my equipment and locos.
Thanks again for all the replies, I think I can make these compromises work.
--
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 08:01:53 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: A new logging line in 2"-scale is growing up.
Hello all,
some will remember me and my european styled 2"-scaled railroad ( http://www.lostvalleyrr.de.ki ).
Since I've moved to my own house some weeks ago, I've started a completely new project in 2"-scale. I'll kitbash my locos to US styled logging engines and will restart in 2"-scale logging operations.
Most of my old rolling stock has been sold and in the next month, I'll start to build a large number of logging equipment, including 2 caboose, a new toolcar, a string of 8 pairs disconnects and many more.
But this time, I'll not only build the rolling stock of a railroad..
I'll also spend some time an material in building opther structures and things around the tracks. Bunkhouses for example...
The first one, a shower house, has been finished yesterday in a rough version. It sill needs some paint and details like door hinges, doorknob and other things. The box is build out of plywood, while all other things has been add to the box from wooden stripes.
Each house will be approx 16" in weight, 36" in length and 24" in height. Two 6-men-cabins, a blacksmith and a cookhouse will follow in the next days.
There's also a watertank for the steamengine on my drawing board, that will be build too in the next month.
I've posted some photos of my first loco "Maggie" and the bunkhouse to the photo section in a folder called "Bear Creek Lbr. Co."
Working on the Bunkhouse
That's me in my new workshops, working on the first bunkhouse
Shower house 1
Shower house 2
Maggie 1
This loco was kitbashed out of my old german diesel switcher. It's battery powered.
Maggie 2
Another view. I'm still waiting for the link&pin couplers to finish this model.
If you are interested in my new project, stay tuned on my new website at
http://www.bcl.de.ki
Best regards, Gerd
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 08:46:44 EST
From: douglasandcj@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
When you get some equipment and would like to run you are welcome to come to the Rock Creek Railway and run. I'm just in the early stages of building but having been sick for the past 2 years work has been slow. But, I'm feeling better now and work will restart soon.
I'm going 2 1/2" scale and i've got a F&CC/RGS 20 under construction. I'm using the aluminum rail that I designed and I'll be able to accommodate axel loads of 400 lbs and as I said I'm building a 4-6-0.
The track has 16" 2"X 2" treated wood and composite ties amd all turnouts will be No 8 with 60 foot minimum radius curves.
Stay in touch.
Doug De Berg
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 15:22:49 -0000
From: "Rome"
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Just a warning, unless you build a Mason-Bogie style of locomotive, the Forney is actually stiffer than a Mogul or Prairie wheel arrangement.
I have found this discussion very helpful, especially the axle loading.
Rome Romano
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:50:20 -0500
From: Arno Martens
Subject: Re: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Right, don't know about the calculations when a swing motion truck is used but with a fixed truck on a Forney the rigid wheel base is from the front axle to the swivel center of the rear truck.
--
Cheers,
Arno
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 20:06:01 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: Re: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
You guys are right, I hadn't thought of the rigid wheel base being that long. Better to stick with geared locos. They would work better for a logging RR anyway.
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 20:23:49 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: Re: A new logging line in 2"-scale is growing up.
Nice website and I like the name you chose for your RR.
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:45:17 -0000
From: "ddallavicenza"
Subject: Crown 24" 4-4-0
I was just looking at a nice old crown 4-4-0 sitting in a shed on a railroad I happened to spy while driving by on a trip to Jamestown. I was wondering if there are an "Crowm Metal Products" experts on this list?
kind regards
Dennis
Playing on the east coast for a few weeks.
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 20:09:54 -0600
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Doug, a year or so ago I did look up your address but I think you were visiting down in Texas. I will enjoy visiting other RR's, thanks for the invitation.
Glad your feeling better, nothing like laying track to bring a person around.
Rick
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 19:28:55 -0600
From: "Tom Casper"
Subject: RE: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Hi Rick,
We are glad you made it out to see us. We enjoyed your company. Please come back. We always need brakeman.
You can be like us and relay your rail more than once to keep things interesting. You can always upgrade the rail as it wears out and maybe move it to siding and spurs. I like the class A idea. I would like one to play
around with.
Later:
Tom Casper
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 05:48:58 -0000
From: "Frolin Marek"
Subject: Re: 3.75" scale on 7.5" gauge
Rick,
I have to agree, my visits to the SR&CL convinced me to go to the much larger scale, over 1.5". In my case, I have a freelance diesel that was inspired by the SR&CL 25, that I too ride inside the cab.
But don't forget, and Jack will be the first to point this out, he is NOT running 7.5" gauge like the tracks you are probably used to or that many of us run on. He is running "one third scale equipment and track". And that his track is 8lb and 12lb rail, real rail, not scale aluminum rail as many use on the 1.5" scale railroads.
His stuff is much bigger and so is his entire railroad, engines, cars, track, switch stands, buildings. Its 1/3 the size of real Two Foot gauge, and not just the larger scale, live steam modeling 2ft on 7.5" to run on club tracks. SO with that, his BIG STUFF runs on BIG TRACK too.
Ok, probably stuff you already know, but was a reminder I was given a couple times there. I have a small collection of pictures I took on my site, plus stuff that Tom C shared with me.
http://www.frolin.net/mmgs/srcl/index.html
My last visit was way to long along in early 2005, when I flew up there to help shovel snow and work on the line, over four days. Shovel snow... I live in San Antonio, Texas, it was "fun for me to shovel and plow snow", while its an annual pain in the butt for the natives - har har.
Another factor, is CLEARANCES. I found out that various 1.5" scale tracks, don't seem to have in general, good clearances. And you bring that over-sized narrow gauge stuff there and you hit... trees, fence posts, bridges, switch stands.
My loco cab is 23 inches wide. My pilot beam and plow is 23 inches wide. The plow is 1 inch above the rails. The overhand on my cab is 23 inches wide. The peak of my cab's curver roof is 48 inches above the rails. I plow out cuts... I can tear out switch stands, I stop at trees.
My loco is electric though, not gas like the SR&CL #25. And two trucks, four axles, me inside, is still about 600-700 pounds. So thus only 150-175 pounds per axle.
But in reply to clearances I hear "on my steamer I just lean my head when I go by that tree you hit". In short, they do not have safe clearances in general, so a guy riding a 1.5" steamer, has kick-pegs sticking out and needs 17-20 inches wide. Their elbows can stick out further than that. And their head is, well, not needing as much room.
So fun thoughts when you go with the 3 3/4" scale BIG stuff, weight, and clearances...
Frolin
Marek Mountain Tram
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