Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 22:14:00 +1000
From: grpfuzz@optusnet.com.au
Subject: 2.5" scale Butterfly firebox doors
Hi all.
Does anyone know of a supplier who has 2.5" scale butterfly firebox doors for sale? Or someone who has one they want to sell? I'm considering David Moores 1.5" scale doors because the hole is the right size but they will be a bit fine. I believe Carl Ulrich possibly has castings but i cant seem to get on to him through email.
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 17:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Casper
Subject: Re: Lookin for Carl
Greg, keep trying on Carl as he has email problems alot out in the wilds where he resides. I think he will be in touch as soon as he can. He does have beautiful parts.
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 11:39:10 -0400
From: dpattonredmesa@netscape.net
Subject: RE 2.5" Scale Butterfly firedoors
I spoke with Carl two years ago about his firedoors.
He explained that he has the patterns and had been casting sets of them, and had sent some - including some which were machined and finished - to Rudy VanWingen, several years earlier.
He explained that he had stopped casting them due to losing access to a foundry.
Paul Lavacot ended up with a couple of sets.
I bought one, and I suspect by now, that the other is also gone.
Dick Patton
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 08:38:07 +1000
From: grpfuzz@optusnet.com.au
Subject: RE 2.5" Scale Butterfly firedoors
Thanks Dick
Rudy sent me a picture of the ones he had, they are beautiful castings. I stupidly didn't follow through and buy one back then. Paul has since told me he doesn't have any. I'll just have to keep in touch with Carl. let me know if you here of one for sale!!
Regards
Greg (In Australia)
Date: Sat, 05Oct 2008
From: stevehughesrgs20
Subject: Tom Murray's Locos
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2008 04:19:17 -0000
From: "William Van Lenten"
Subject: Judge ruling
I don't know what this world is coming to. One man with the love of trains, builds a back yard railroad. Another couple buys property next to the railroad, knowing that the railroad was there, decides to put an end to the railroad, after it had been there over a decade. They were also trying to put an end to Bill Hays' railroad, but didn't succeed in that one. What is wrong with these people?? Now they missed out on something, just to be mean.
Read the whole story on the pages of www.discoverlivesteam.com
Thanks, Bill
Ok everyone
need help removing silicon that was used to hold some thin metal parts on my engine.
I have tried sand blasting, paint stripper, MEK to the end of no results and some funny spots on my skin where the paint stripper worked well on my skin but not on the part.
Any Ideas would be helpful.
Thanks
Boyd way up here lost again even forgot what state I am in other than lost.
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 11:02:44 -0400
From: "Custmachr"
Subject: RE: Silicon Removal
I have not tried it, but I have seen silicon caulk softener/remover in the home stores such as Lowes and Ace hardware.
Tim
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 15:15:30 -0000
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: Ceramic Burner for my 5" gauge Marie E
Hello,
it's a long time since my last post regarding the Marie E and the ceramic-burner for it.
Last weekend I was in north-east Germany to get the burner finally built and installed in the engine, and around 04.30 pm on october 04, 2008, the engine war running the first time in Germany on a teststand.
For the engine, we had a bad surprise, because it seems, it was used more than told. And after building up the steam-pressure, their are some steam-leaks and not sealing valves. The major problem is the crosshead on the right side, which has to much play and tips over.
I've learned a lot regarding the construction of ceramic-burners and which so many burners fail. We had the burner finished and the testrun out of the engine worked very good, but after it was installed in the firebox, my friend wasn't satisfied. So, he installed a bigger nozzle and the burner worked, but their was the smell of propane in the air. Too big nozzle :-(
So, he built up a new nozzle, and this time it works o.k. The rest I have to see, when the engine is running on the track with me on the riding car.
And for the ceramic-burner, it is rated to give between 4,000 and 5,000 watts of heat.
Ceramic burner installed in the firebox
Marie E running on the test-roller-track
View into the cab during High Ball
Greetings from Germany
your moderator
Hubert The Goose
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:58:26 +0000
From: Lineshaft@comcast.net
Subject: RE: Silicon Removal
Just a thought, but use caution!!!
I use brake-kleen for removing thin layers of silicon sealer from parts on heavy equipment.
Caution, it will remove paint too!!!.
Test on something you don't value.
Bare metals should be a be a problem.
Dave Fontes
Well thanks for the help so far, am unable to get it off still, the MEK is worse than brake clean all it does is make me high and not want to do anything but look at it, no just kidding am outside the garage doing it. But the bottom line is that the only way to get it off is to scrape it at this point. I still have hope that someone will come up with something I have not tried. The silicone calking is a little different than RTV type for some reason and doesn't respond the same as RTV is not paintable like calking style is. I am at this point faced with having some made it looks like so keep the ideas coming as do apreciate them all even if I have tried them. Am growing the skin back where the stripper got me before I could wash it off.
Thanks Again
Boyd, still here trying chemicals to see if I can ruin the enviroment.
Hey will give the gas a try the other I don't know where to get it but will ask a friend who does sprint cars as he knows all of the racers around here. Oh yes by the way he showed me an old sprint car from 55 that had been stored since then in a garage in Seattle, looks like the frame was made from water pipe back then and must have weighed in at about three times what one does today.
Boyd back to trains and silicone
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 08:46:14 -0000
From: "derekwmoss"
Subject: Re: Silicone
hi there
i know this is a long shot but bi carbonate of soda removes it from glass after a while. a strong solution of baking powder may work and is not likely to remove the skin.
thanks derek!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 22:49:28 -0000
From: "edgarcorny"
Subject: Civil Engineering for Outdoor Railroads Volume 2 Bridges - status update.
Hi,
I just heard from Doug vV today. He has received the copy-edited version of the "Civil Engineering for Outdoor Railroads Volume 2 Bridges" back from the publisher.
It has quite a few changes that need to be reviewed and some of the changes need to go back to the programs which have generated them. So it will be a while to get this back to the publisher (1-3 weeks).
He asked me to remind everyone that this is a more technically advanced book that Volume 1 but the first few chapters that do not go into the programs will be valuable to give you a good feeling about your bridge(s).
The chapter on fasteners may actually be useful without the need for detailed analysis of a bridge itself.
He hopes that Volume 2 will be like Volume 1 was supposed to be - available for Christmas. However, the first copy of Volume 1 was received by him on December 31, 2005.
Doug vV is considering photos of typical railroad bridges (his own). If you have a photo that you have the rights to and would like to offer it (and be acknowledged in the book) for use as a book cover, please let me (Edgar Corny) know.
Doug is also not considering pre-sales of Volume 2. Delays took so long in Volume 1 that he does not feel comfortable to a pre-production sale price.
I hope you find this update information is useful.
Thanks.
Edgar Corny
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 15:46:11 -0000
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: 7.25" layout in Sweden
Hello from Germany,
on a german livesteam-forum I found a posting to view a video on yahoo:
And here is the description, which can be found their:
In September some members of the Stormpolder Live Steamers visited one of the nicest 7¼" live steam tracks on the European continent: Borås MiniatyrÅngloksSällskap. We brought two live steam locos with us: the NS (Nederlandse Spoorwegen, Dutch Railways) 4014 (a 3 cylinder engine, the original built in Sweden by NOHAB and based on the H3s type that ran at the Bergslagernas Järnväg) and a narrow gauge O&K named "Klorus" (built in 7 months). During our stay the society operated their clubloco "Bridget", a Rob Roy with separate tender, two very well build BR 70000 class (Britannia and the William Shakespeare). The live steam track is about 1200m long and is situated in a well maintained forrest. As a special they have built a fantastic scenery in scale 1:8 including houses, station buildings and water towers.
Please visit www.bmas.se for more information about this nice live steam society and wonderful track.
Greetings from Germany
Your moderator
Hubert The Goose
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 20:32:12 -0000
From: "edgarcorny"
Subject: CEv1
Hi,
Doug vV asked me to see if there is any interest in translating CE volume 1 into another language.
Being descended from Dutch (Netherlands) on his father's side, of course Dutch would be nice. However, Maybe German or Spanish might be better.
Anyone, have any thoughts on the mater?
Thanks.
Edgar Corny
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 17:09:15 -0400
From: Arno Martens
Subject: Re: CEv1
Edgar,
If it is just for a loose leaf insert in that manner of "English as she's spoke" that is doable.
If it is supposed to be a translation for a printed edition in that other language it would become quite an undertaking.
A lot of research would be required to use the right idiomatic approach.
Furthermore, unless all formulae are in metric, they would have to be transposed into that system, again with unit and terminology used in that environment.
Example:
There are lots of converters on the web but if torque is expressed in pound-force foot does one choose kilopond meter, kilogram-force meter, Newton meter, kiloNewton meter or any of the others available.
This is a matter of job lingo and will need to be researched.
Just a thought.
You asked for it! ;->)
Arno
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 13:31:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Haskey
Subject: 15" Gauge electric operations
I've posted a video to YouTube of electric operations on the GSP&P. We're aware of one other 15" gauge railway with live overhead wire in Japan. Does anyone know of any others?
---john.
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 08:22:25 -0000
From: "derekwmoss"
not sure if the gauge is the same but it is narrow gauge.
thanks derek!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 01:53:43 -0000
From: "Tom C"
Subject: Re: 15" Gauge electric operations
John,
Interesting. thanks for the link. What voltage are they running off that neat machine?
Tom C.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:54:24 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: Finished some more rolling stock,
Hello NarrowGaugers,
I just finished the last car for my railroad in 2008. Since my last post, I've added a flatcar, a boxcar, a secound caboose and a coach to my roster. You'll find pictures of these models on my website. http://www.bclrr.de.ki
Gerd
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 09:39:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: leonard laufer
Subject: Re: Silicon Removal
Boyd, there is an excellent product out there that I use all the time .
It's called "DE-SOLV-IT", Contractors' Solvent. I bought mine at a full service paint store but it may be available at Home Depot or Lowes. If not, try to Google it.
len
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:39:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Haskey
Subject: Re: Re: 15" Gauge electric operations
I'm told it's 220vdc.
john.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:34:13 -0500
From: BusBarn@Prodigy.net
Subject: Re: Finished some more rolling stock
Gerd, very nice job on the equipment, I envy the speed at which you produced your rolling stock.
Rick Taylor
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 06:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Erhart
Subject: Re: Finished some more rolling stock
Gerd,
Thanks for sharing. I am inspired and really need to get my act together. I am keenly interesting in the pedestals and link/pin couplers you used for your Billmeyer & Smalls flat car and boxcar (and also the logging disconnects). If you could provide a construction article for those items, it would be greatly appreciated. I am working in 2 1/2 inch scale, 7 1/2 inch gauge, but it should scale up. I am currently working on a Maxitrak Lil'jo in a 2-6-0 + tender configuration. I think some cars built like yours would look great behind it.
George Erhart
Loveland, CO
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 19:25:48 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: Re: Finished some more rolling stock
George,
I just added a new folder to the photo section of the group, showing the way I've build my couplers and pedestals.
The couplers,
are made from 20x2mm flatbar for the mounting plate, a piece of 35x20mm rectangular pipe and a faceplate, laser cut from 2mm steel. The flatbar and pipe are welded together inside the couplers mouth. The faceplate is soldered into place by soft soldering.
Link&Pin couplers, made from flatbar, rec-pipe and laser cut ring
Flatbar and rec-pipe are welded, while the ring has been soft soldered.
The pedestals,
are also mostly made from stock material. 25x25mm rec pipe with 1.5mm walls will pretty fit with 22mm diameter ball bearings. On top of this pipe, I mounted a mounting plate from 15x3mm flatbar by using a screw and welding. The journal cover is simple made from aluminium sheet.
The pedestal plate on the car is a laser cut part again. I don't use springs on my cars, so I put those covers in place by some screws.
For my disconnects, I used a smaller version, cnc milled out of 3mm plywood.
The pedestals are made from rec-pipe, inside width matches with ball bearings on axles, flatbar and sheet metal.
The pedestal frame is a laser cut part in this one. The pedestals are fixed mounted without springs.
Another version of pedestal frames, used on my disconects.
Hope you got some ideas,
Gerd
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 16:32:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Erhart
Subject: Re: Re: Finished some more rolling stock
Gerd,
Thanks for the additional details ... I have a few more questions:
1.
Are you really using soft solder on the face plate for the couplers? I would think that what is called soft solder in the US would not be able to stand up to much "side" force and would pop off. (The soft solder I am thinking of is used in connecting copper plumbing pipes.)
2.
Do you have access to the laser cutting equipment? I have accumulated quite a collection of books on metal casting because I thought that was the only way to go. From your example, it looks like fabricating the pedestals would be much easier. I need to see if I can create the parts via a CAD package, then find a metal shop that can cut them out for me. It also looks like a good excuse to invest in a better welding outfit.
I don't think that the new photos have shown up yet, the group web site indicates that there are 5 new photos, but when I click the link, the resulting page does not have any photos.
George Erhart
Loveland, CO
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 05:31:13 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: Re: Finished some more rolling stock
George,
yes it is (copper plumbing) soft soldered. The hole for the pin is located in the rec pipe, welded to the mounting plate. So all draw and push forces are working on this parts. The front plate is only an optical part, rounding up the overall look. So soft solder is okay. You can also use silver solder or even welding. But soft solder works for me.
I gave the CAD files of the laser cut parts to a friend, how knows a guy, that has access to a laser cutter.
And I miss my photos too... yesterday, they have been there... but now I can't find them.
