Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 01:28:04 -0700
From: "hugh smith"
Subject: The Deal of a life time
To all interested persons,
I have a Sweet Creek 2-6-0 partially completed, does NOT run on air, along with 3 cars , 12 trucks and too many parts to list. Because of its size It must be seen to be appreciated. Price is USD7500.00 F.O.B. my garage. Approx $20,000 invested
The nominating process for the 2008 award will start November 1, 2008.
Jamie
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:28:05 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: Maiden run of Forney "Christine" was successfull
Hello,
last Sunday, my Forney performed her first run during a public operation day on the great layout of the Taunus-Live-Steamers (Germany). The loco runs realy great and looks very good as many visitors told me ;-)
I posted 4 pics to my Bear Creek Lbr. Co. folder in the photo section.
I hope you'll enjoy them. Now I've a free time to build some logcars for my steamer.
Regards, Gerd
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 21:01:48 -0000
From: "Michael"
Subject: Re: Maiden run of Forney "Christine" was successfull
Beautiful Dampfmaschine!!!!
What did you use for plans-design. ?
Danke
Michale
Floriduh
USA
Iron Naut
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 05:21:23 -0000
From: "Gerd Ziller"
Subject: Re: Maiden run of Forney "Christine" was successfull
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 23:05:43 -0000
From: "Terry Liesegang"
Subject: Re: The Deal of a life time
Do you have pictures of what you have for sale?
Terry
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 13:27:32 -0000
From: "tonysusana"
Subject: Re: Maiden run of Forney "Christine" was successfull
Hi Gerd
Great pictures
The forney looks really good. Love the porportions.
What gauge does she run on?
Regards,
Tony
Miami, Fl
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 16:27:48 +0200
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"
Subject: Re: Maiden run of Forney "Christine" was successfull
Hello Tony,
The forney looks really good. Love the porportions.
Me too ;-)
And Gerd's engine was the reason, why I bought my own from the UK last Eastern.
What gauge does she run on?
Sadly for this list on 5", which is more common over here in Germany than 7.25" gauge.
But overall, it's narrow gauge, ride-on and live-steam.
Greetings from Germany
Hubert The Goose
Moderator/Owner of this list
Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 01:32:39 -0000
From: "Jim OConnor"
Subject: lawsuit survey
Some of you may have participated in the survey John Beck conducted on discoverlivesteam.com about lawsuits. The survey is done and John wrote an article summarizing his findings. It's an eye opener. You can read it here... http://discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/109/index.html
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 02:46:15 -0000
From: "John Oxlade"
Subject: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Does anyone have any good, practical advice or experience of building tunnels or bridges for miniature railways?
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 19:50:22 -0700
From: "Geoff"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
One method I've seen used successfully is the old gas station tanks buried for the center sections of the tunnel and then ends of wood or concrete.
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 14:53:28 +1200
From: "John Oxlade"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Wow, that was a fast response!
Not seen that one, but I know that 6' diameter sewer pipes and 6' diameter corrugated tube has been used (the latter at Pecorama on the Beer Heights Light Railway). Here in New Zealand the tunnels are of an alarmingly small profile: http://www.worldrailfans.info/7.25inch/GalleryManukau.shtml
John
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:03:09 +1200
From: "Chris"
Subject: RE: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
What would you like to know John?
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 20:05:10 -0700
From: Veronica Merryfield
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
I was going to post about cut and cover for the tunnels using corrugated tube (culverts) but they probably ought to be more than 6'.
One needs to figure out the height needed over the track bed to be safe. The ends of the tunnel could be finished in a number of ways.
Bridges are harder and depend on the span and look required. What did you have in mind?
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:07:41 +1200
From: "Chris"
Subject: RE: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
The tunnel at MLS was built only for 5" gauge originally - and some of the huge 2 foot prototypes (3-4" scale) avoid it.
Ive built everything here to a 1 metre wide by 1.5 metre high loading gauge to ensure any visiting equipment can make it round
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:19:19 +1200
From: "John Oxlade"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Ah, not sure yet. My wife and I are looking for a piece of land to suit us both. For the railway, flat-ish but not too flat to add interest. Depending on what we find, I may have to bridge or tunnel, but I don't have specifics yet. What I was hoping (!?) was to find a reference somewhere on "this is how we did it in THIS circumstance" - a bit like the article I quoted on the Winter Creek line.
Of course, (cost accepted), straight tunnels are fairly easy as you can use concrete pipes of some sort, but curved ones are a totally different matter.
John
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:43:48 +1200
From: "Chris"
Subject: RE: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Yea - we crossed in the (e) mail.
Umm - I did extensive research about bridge and tunnel types - once I knew precisely what I was facing. Curved vs straight, type of ground being traversed etc. I have leant on some engineering friends, but always get the 'It depends' answer.
As a starting point - suggest you get a copy of your local building code for retaining walls (think one sided tunnels) and timber decking (think wide bridges)
I also have a very well thumbed copy of Kalmbach's Bridges for Model Railroads. This goes into great detail about trestle, truss and girder type bridges.
Finally - if you scale stuff down it will come out strong enough, but look weak - then add a bit until it looks right. For example - my current trestle project (25m or 100ft long and 3m or 10ft high) uses pile bents. Scaled
prototype would make these about 70mm square, Ive gone up to the next available timer size - 100mm (4" square). This is the third bridge I have built using this timber and they are all really solid.
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 16:12:23 +1200
From: "John Oxlade"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Thanks for the tips Chris - perhaps one day I can get to see your line.
John
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 21:46:47 -0700
From: "Dave C"
Subject: RE: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
John
There are many things that you can use for a tunnel but avoid any gas or oil tanks as these can cost you huge $$$ as most of them need to be 'de-contaminated" prior to any use and that is big bucks. If you check at the local highways yard they sometimes have old culverts that they have pulled out in upgrades on highways. We got six 20' sections 6' diam. for free if we picked up on the construction site including 3 sets of joiners.
We arranged for a local truck (Mobile home mover) to go out and pick them up. Mobile home movers usually have dollies and frames that are perfect for such things. The trucking charges were less than the price of just one new one.
I wouldn't make a tunnel any smaller, if something happens in the tunnel you and your passengers have to be able to get out and you have to be able re-rail equipment ect.
As for bridges, if you are building for yourself only then there are a few books and articles out there to guide you but if you are planning to allow the public on the thing then get an engineer to help you out. Well worth the
price in peace of mind.
There are a few places you can get this done for nearly free if you are in an urban area. Tech. schools sometimes need a real world project for students and if you approach the right person you can get full drawings etc. Other clubs have probably already have had drawings made and locally certified and may be willing to get a copy to you. Check around in your local area.
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 06:13:02 -0400
From: Ralph Reese
Subject: RE: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Douglas van Veelen, the author of Civil Engineering for Railroads is bringing out volume 2 Which deald extensively with bridges. This book and the associated computer programs will aid you in doing the necessary calculations to build SAFE bridges. I have seen an advance copy, and it will be a great asset to the model railroad community. Please note that I have no financial connection to the author, merely a reviewer.
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:10:00 EDT
From: derdkamp@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Deal of a life time
HUGH, did you sell you sweet creek and shop?
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 19:13:35 -0600
From: Terry Miller
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Hello John,
I am seconding the good news about the upcoming Vol. 2 Civil Engineering. It promises to be a great asset for us all. In the mean time, Douglas Van Veelen will be happy to discuss your needs. He presented the option to work with him way back in Vol. 1 and he is still trying to get railroaders to consult him with their needs. I am sure you can contact him through the ads on Discover Live Steam web site. If not, let me know and I will send him your email so you two can get together.
Good Luck,
Terry Miller
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 22:36:54 -0000
From: "edgarcorny"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Hi,
I would consider several items before deciding on what to use for tunnels or bridges. There are many items that depend on others.
First, the soil type under it may require footings for bridges. In "Civil Engineering for Outdoor Railroads Volume 1" (2005), there are photos of a trestle with no footings that stood up well and yet the center section of a second trestle not 15 feet away, was mushy enough to have required footings.
The roadbed construction in CEv1 shows that you must keep water away from the track and ballast structure to reduce maintenance and settling.
Since most of us are about 6' high, and trackwork in a tunnel will be needed at some time, I'd recommend that the distance from railhead to roof of tunnel be at least 75". Working in a 10 foot long tunnel with only 5 feet from the railhead to the roof will get old FAST.
Make sure the tunnels will not hold water. In fact, it would not be a bad idea to put in a PVC drainage network under the track to drain water from the roadbed inside the tunnel.
As far as bridges are concerned, if you use a prototype bridge and scale down the member sizes, you should not have any structural problems. There is no way to quantify this easily for a short message (relatively speaking) as this. CEv2 will discuss this.
As for grade crossings where automobiles and other rubber tired vehicles will cross the tracks, be sure to realize that the train weight is no longer a consideration. It is the 2000 pound SUV or the 6-wheel delivery truck or even the 18-wheeler moving truck that the track structure needs to support. Also remember that the track structure will need to be serviced. The servicing needs will increase as turnouts and other track items are placed in the pavement.
EC
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 01:49:43 -0000
From: "William Van Lenten"
Subject: Re: Any advice/recommendations on tunnel and bridge building?
Has anyone ever ridden Thunder Mountain at Disney??? Well, we built our tunnel (240ft. curved,two track) Just like Disney.. I-beams set into concrete, rebar welded to the I-beams, then lathing and colored stucco.. Looks real, when you make pockets to put plants into. The inside looks like it was blasted out of rock, but it's just stucco...It was a little pricey, but will last for ever... Also our 100ft. curved trestle was made of 2"x2" steel tube, welded like bents, and painted to look like wood...
Bill
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 10:53:48 -0000
From: "almbldr"
Subject: Double Action Hand Pump
Hello All,
Can anyone suggest where I can find a double action hand pump?
Thanks, Mac
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:00:02 -0000
From: "John Vincent"
Subject: Re: Double Action Hand Pump
You could always make one. Two singles back to back, that way you don't have to worry about high pressure seals.
John Vincent
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 04:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry McCarthy
Subject: Re: Re: Double Action Hand Pump
John,
Thats a great idea. I had not thought of that. Is it a simple as it sounds?
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:27:19 -0000
From: "John Vincent"
Subject: Re: Double Action Hand Pump
Yup. Providing you have enough space, you put both pumps, end to end, on the same base plate with a single operating handle in the middle.
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 07:20:00 -0700
From: "Steve Hughes"
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 13:10:23 -0500
From: "Thomas Scott"
Subject: Re: Double Action Hand Pump
Cole Power Models use to have a double action hand pump built about like two single pumps, one on each side of the center handel. I think they used it in the tender of their 2-6-0 model steam loco.
Thomas Scott
