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7-Plus-NGM Digest May 2003

Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 01:39:29 -0000
From: "hovercrafting1"

Subject: question for group



Hi,

I'm new here and was wondering...does 2.5" scale run on 3.5" gauge track? And, does it mean it's 2.5" to the foot?

Thanks, Nate

Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 19:45:20 -0600
From: "Mike Decker"

Subject: Re: question for group



Hi Nate:

Yes, 2.5" scale means it is two and one-half inches to the foot. In the context of this list, it is the scale used to represent full size 36" gauge equipment operating on 7-1/2" gauge track.

Best,

Mike Decker

Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 18:43:00 -0400
From: Kenneth Chenard

Subject: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



List:

For those interested in the lucky 7, the following link will bring you top a photo of Lucky 7 1 to 1 2ft gauge taken during a test steaming the night of April 19th 2003.

http://tinyurl.com/auq3

Kind regards,

Ken Chenard

Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 11:39:36 -0600
From: "Chuck Hoelzen"

Subject: Re: question for group



Nate,

2.5" scale is 2.5" to a foot of the prototype engine/car.

You could build a 2.5" to run on any gauge you want but you would want to run on 7.5".

Now you can do the math...

For 3' narrow gauge at 2.5" scale the gauge is 7.5" for standard gauge that comes closer to 11.77" (12").

I am working in 3" scale on 15" gauge. That is near standard gauge

I have a web page at www.trainweb.org/riverview. You may find interesting.

Chuck

Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 21:10:28 -0400
From: Arno Martens

Subject: Re: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



What a great shot Ken, thanks for sharing.
Last time I've seen her she was still at Edaville.

Arno

Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 09:51:44 -0400
From: Kenneth Chenard

Subject: Re: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



Arno,

Arthur Hussey took a great photo that night. Her size for a 2 footer is truly impressive. Ken

Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 15:05:44 EDT
From: Jubilatede@aol.com

Subject: Re: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



Great tosee my all time favorite steam engine hot again. Last time I saw her in October '02 she looked pretty forlorn sitting stackless out in the open at Portland. The folks up there must have been busy over the winter.

As a 16 or 17 year old kid, I helped Everett Brown fix her up for the last hurrah on the B&H. Wish they hadn't splashed that white paint on a perfectly good pilot.

Cam Brown

Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 21:38:14 -0700
From: "Daniel F. Morris"

Subject: Great Nowhere Railroad Pixs



The past weekend May 3rd & 4th Russ Clough held a mini meet at his "Great Nowhere Railroad" located in Moses Lake, Washington. The weather was mild and the attendance was good with railroaders from throughout Washington State.
A good time was had by all. Check out this meet along with others at "Live Steaming In The Pacific Northwest" http://www.sscom.org/pnwls.html

Enjoy!

Dan Morris

Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 21:45:08 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Re: Great Nowhere Railroad Pixs



Dan,

I really appreciate your photos etc. on your web site, but could you please make the sounds and music an optional thing for those who want to hear them. Perhaps they could push a button for the sounds.

Thanks,

Jim Hoback
Sonora, California

Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 15:43:09 -0000
From: "n11525re"

Subject: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



Sure is nice to see #7 under steam again, I hope she will be able to return to service!
Forgive me if this subject has been covered already, but does anyone on the list know the story behind the nickname "Lucky"?

Cheers,

Stan Rutledge

Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 15:36:17 EDT
From: Jubilatede@aol.com

Subject: Re: Re: Lucky 7 current situation?



Re: "Lucky #7"

Without digging into my unorganizd stuff, my take is that the Lucky was hung on #7 by Don Young in his Live Steam construction article some years ago. Maybe playing off another source of a locomotive book about the same vintage where #7, I think letered for Edaville had a two page spread identifying her as the "first" engine recycled from the scrappers for tourist railroad use.

Putting in another two cents worth, an additional soft spot I have for #7 that she just seems to be hung together more gracefully that the steel cabbed #8 on the Bridgton road. Wit the same wooden overhung-to-the-rear cab my second esthetic choice is #24 on the SR&RL. Too bad this last lady didn't survive.

Cam Brown

Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 10:52:59 -0400
From: btflco@aol.com

Subject: Re: Great Nowhere Railroad Pixs



Dan, I would have to second with Jim Hoback on the sounds etc. Nice pages but slow to load even on the DSL
I am using and the option to have sound or not would be appreciated.
Regards,
Jeff Badger

Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 17:36:26 -0700
From: "Dave Cormie"

Subject: Re: Great Nowhere Railroad Pixs



Me too, I like to listen to cd's while I surf the sites and if I go to a site with sound (very very very rare) I simply lock up.
If I want to look at any of Dan's sites which are very good I have to use one of the other computers in the house.
Kind of annoying as sound on sites kind of died many years ago.

Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 18:44:02 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: My speeder for the Triennial



Hello all,

after some weeks of much work, I just set up a new version of my webpage with a new photo.

Check it out under http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/speedere.htm .

Sadly, only around two weeks remaining, I'm wondering, if I will be able to finish the speeder in time for shipping.

Hubert from Germany

Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 02:45:59 -0000
From: "Dwayne Miller"

Subject: Gypsy Live steamers...



Ok, subject might not be spelled correctly, but here goes anyway.

A few of the people in my area, who are dissatisfied with the local clubs' politics. Are considering starting a differant type of club.

Small, 5-12 memebers, larger would be possible but unwieldly. No home track, but a small number of private tracks where we welcome calls from the owners to help with a project, or a run or some such.

No dues, planned outings 1-4 weekends a month depending on weather and desire of the member.

We basicly hop from track to track, never showing up without an invite, and offer to work on the track, help with whatever needs done in the morning and spend the afternoon or evening playing. (ok, we all big kids so we can admit to playing).

Now, down to my question.

Has anyone seen a similar club anywhere???

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:47:20 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbay"

Subject: Re: Gypsy Live steamers...



Dwayne,
Here in Pennsylvania (more or less) there is a loosely knit group called the "Independent Livesteamers". http://www.geocities.com/miller68_69/ilsn1.html

We are the kind of group you describe. A few member have tracks to which there are invitation only meets. No club politics and the only rules are the rules of the member's private track.
There are, or was, a small group called the "Southern Tier Livesteamers" in the twin tiers of NY and PA. This group kind of fell apart but I know there are a few individuals still busy building their private tracks. Myself included.

Bruce Mowbray
7+" Gauge Livesteamer (and Dieseler)

Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 09:08:27 EDT
From: davidh8602@aol.com

Subject: Re: Gypsy Live steamers...



Along the same idea is the SouthWest Live Steamers, a group of privates track and including one public track here in Houston.

Check out the Southwest Live Steamers web page.

David Hannah, III
www.hals.org

Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:52:06 -0500
From: "Bill Laird"

Subject: Re: Gypsy Live steamers...



Dwayne,

We have a group just as you describe in the San Antonio, Texas area. We call ourselves the Alamo Area 7+ Gaugers, or simply the "Alamo Gang". It is a very loose group of around 20 folks. We try and get together at a private track in the area (there are three complete operating tracks and several more in various stages of planning) about every 6 to 8 weeks year around (the mild Texas winters allow for year around running). We usually get together on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon for what we call a "mini-meet" and either bring food or the track host will serve a meal. The group has no officers, no written rules, and no political adgenda or "axe to grind". We have one member who has taken on the responsiblilty of scheduling the "mini-meets" and notifying the members. If a member finds someone new in the area who is interested in the hobby they are invited to attend. The new party is invited to about three consecutive meets and if they show no interest other than riding the trains and eating, they are dropped from the invitation list. If they start to get involved, offer to help with track work, begin building a car or locomotive, or even start asking a lot of questions about how to go about buying or building, then they are kept on the list. This keeps the group small and serious about the hobby. The group has been active for about 4 or 5 years.

Bill Laird
Canyon Lake, Texas

Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 09:58:02 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Gypsy Live steamers...



To those who have responded...

Thanks, at least we have some prototype to work from.

I hope to have this group up this summer, sounds like a wonderful way to enjoy the hobby!!!

Thanks,
Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 11:59:41 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



This seems like a great way to get started... but a google search did not turn up a website for Allen and company's plans and kits?

While I am afraid I will have to pass on this (wife has checkbook locked tight right now), does anyone happen to have a price sheet for their various kits? or know some place on the web that they are listed?

I will be writing to them in a few days, but I guess the net has gotten me spoiled after over 10 years of near instant communication and information.

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:45:05 -0000
From: "fredhaskey"

Subject: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



Dawyne, Gene Allen is definitely from the 'old school'. No time for these 'new-fangled' computers I'd bet... As far as I know he's never had a website. If you give him a call he'll send out a price list, I believe there is a small fee for his catalog.

I saw Gene yesterday and he was 'encouraging' me to get a set of castings for the new consolidation...

---john.

Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 16:51:00 -0400
From: "don@locoparts.net"

Subject: Re: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



John

The next time you see Gene, please remind him that he was going to send me a copy of the drawings for the new consolidation so I can provide some parts for it.

Thanks

don orr
www.locoparts.net

Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 15:11:20 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



There is no web site for Gene Allen's company. His address is:

Allen Models
5994 Cuesta Verde
Goleta, California 93117-1808
Tele: (805) 967-2095
Products: 1-1/2" & 2-1/2" scale locos.

The opening bid on the parts on eBay is about 1/3 of today's price for the plans and parts.

Regards,

Jim

Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:29:54 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



Hmm... I am wondering, if he would send me a catalogue if I promised to scan and host it, thus spreading his work ever further...

Nothing fancy, just a PDF of the catalogue.

But thanks to all who responded, I did find his snail mail address.

Will be calling him this week... hope I dont get him out of bed, he is like 4 hours behind me time wise.

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

AKA: Scanner of many things.

Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 05:06:26 -0000
From: "Trevor Heath"

Subject: Spoked Wheels



Hi,

Can anyone recommend a source for 3" (or there abouts) dia spoked wheels suitable for a bobber caboose?

Thanks
Trevor Heath

Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 05:11:21 -0500
From: "Thomas"

Subject: Re: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



What is his current snail mail address? I have an old catalog from an Allen Supply many years ago and do not know if it is the same Allen or not, but if you have a current address, I would like to have it. Thomas

Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 08:29:15 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbay"

Subject: Re: Spoked Wheels



Trevor,
The spoked wheels on my Railroad Supply 4-4-0, CP-173 are 3 3/4" diameter.
http://www.railroadsupply.com/

Bruce Mowbray
7+" Gauge Livesteamer (and Dieseler)

Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:09:48 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Re: Allen Mogul Plans, Kit



As was posted in a previous message...
Allen Models
5994 Cuesta Verde
Goleta, California 93117-1808
Tele: (805) 967-2095
Products: 1-1/2" & 2-1/2" scale locos.

Thanks to all those who responded.

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Baberton, Ohio

Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 09:57:46 -0000
From: "trains577"

Subject: NEW GROUP



I have started a new group called Building a Southern PS-4. This group is to learn how to build a Live steam Locomotive, and to watch me make a locomotive. Anyone help will be needed, and maybe we can all learn something from this.
Thank You
Mike Looney

Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 08:52:09 -0400
From: Ronald Thibault

Subject: Re: NEW GROUP



Mike;
What is the address of the group. A Yahoo search on "Building a Southern PS-4" does not turn up anything.

Ron Thibault
Warrenville, SC USA

Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 17:51:10 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: My speeder for the TM Triennial



Hello all,

now, that's the deadline is approaching faster than expected, I plan to update my page with the latest progress as often as possible.

Please see the latest information about the construction on the page under

http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/speedere.htm

With the progress of today and hopeful tomorrow it seems, that I'll be able to finish and ship in time.

Also, I now decided to ship the speeder complete (except the batteries). Reason for this decision (which will cost me a lot of money) is the new law, where they can open your luggage at the airport.
And I think, a DC-Motor and an alternator in a suitcase will cause major problems at the luggage-check.

Hube

Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 13:55:48 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: NEW GROUP



Ron:
The address is
BuildingaSouthernPS-4@yahoogroups.com
Thank You
Mike Looney

Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 13:03:04 EDT
From: smuel10363@aol.com

Subject: Re: Digest Number 782



{ cannot locate this on yahoo help please Ray Mueller

Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 15:55:52 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Digest Number 782



Its simple... but the address given is the one you send posts to when your a memeber. To join, send a email, subject Subscribe, and body blank to:
BuildingaSouthernPS-4-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

It will return an email for you to goto a webpage and confirm your options. You may choose to only join the mailing list, or join the group (why you would NOT join the group I have no idea), joining the group allows you to access the photos and files sections, which I would assume will be used to post update pics.

It would be MUCH easier if you already have a yahoo! ID and have registered with the Yahoo! Groups section. If not, I believe you still can sign up, using any email address.

It appears that this group is unlisted, IE: no searches will find it, as its considered a private group. Not sure if that was intended, but it makes sense, as it will help keep the spammers away.

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 00:40:51 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Digest Number 782



I try to set up the group so that everyone could join. I am not sure why people are having problem joining. I will look into it and try to fix it if I can.
Mike Looney
Building A Southern PS-4

Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:25:03 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Digest Number 782



You did nothing wrong, its just listed as private group... If you want some help changing that, email mee off list, and I will help.I run a few groups myself (just not this one).

The email I gave, works, thats how I joined.

As does this URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BuildingaSouthernPS-4/

Clicking on Join this group, upper right hand side will get you there.

Its simply listed as a non-published group, which will help keep spammers away.

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:15:23 -0400
From: Arno Martens

Subject: Re: Re: Digest Number 782



Yesterday pm the group BuildingaSouthernPS-4 was NOT available from within groups.yahoo.
I checked just now, the group is there and joining is the normal process.
--
Arno

Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 15:51:33 -0700
From: "Daniel F. Morris"

Subject: SVLS Golden Spike 30th Anniversary Meet Pixs



The Sacramento Valley Live Steamers held their "Golden Spike 30th Anniversary Meet", May 17th -18th, 2003. The Golden Spike Ceremony was held Saturday morning which included founding SVLS members & local dignitaries driving Golden Spikes.
The attendance for the entire weekend was great as was the beautiful weather to make things perfect. Many of the local area residents stopped by to visit Rancho Cordova's "Hagan Park" and rode on the SVLS railroad.
The evening meal on Saturday was outstanding and very delicious. A big thank you to all those at SVLS for putting on another outstanding meet! It's definitely worth the trip.........................from Lake Stevens, WA.

Live Steaming In The Pacific Northwest

http://www.sscom.org/pnwls.html

Enjoy!

Dan Morris

Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 12:31:18 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Ok, I have been in this hobby a couple of years now, but am just now getting to the point where I am building my own engine.

Anyone happen to know of a website, pdf file or similar on how to turn a raw casting into a finished wheel?

I have used a lathe, (dont own one, will be using another 7+ Railfan's), but it has been years (since High School), and I honestly have no idea how to get started. I have some scrap round stock I plan to use as a refersher for turning the axles, but dont really want to spend the cash for a practice wheel or two.

Anyone know where I might find such instructions? If someone has a copy of an article or something I would be willing to pay a reasonable price for shipping and photocopying if thats required (plus, most likely I will scan it and post it on the web, if thats legal).

Thanks,
Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 13:53:11 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbay"

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Dwayne,
Back in February I posted my method on the LIvesteamers email list. Here is a cut and paste of my old post. It is geared towards machining drive wheels but the basic method will work of any wheels.
Enjoy

I too say there is always more than one way to do everything and have it come out right. I think it would be a good idea to list the various ways we have of doing things and let the builder choose their way. Some time back I wrote a little step by step manual on how I do my drivers and wheels. I was going to post it on my website along with the other "Trainhead Loco Shop" pages with pictures and drawings. I might still do it when I get the time. Until then, here is the written part of the post on how I do it. Keep in mind this is not the only way to machine drivers. And pardon any misspelled words. If there are any questions, please ask so that I might be able to describe this method more clearly. Enjoy!!

I like to turn my drivers starting in a 4 jaw chuck (if they are really out concentrically front to back) and finishing the faces in a 3 jaw chuck. Finishing up the tread on a fixture on my faceplate. Here the order in which I do it.

1) Measure the rough casting to see how much has to come off each side so that I get the wheel I am looking for when the turning is complete. Sometimes I make a double size cross section drawing of the casting and an overlay of the cross section of the finished wheel. This way I can physically see how much has to come off the front and back without making any chips. Measure all of your wheels. Casting are sometimes very different even though they came from the same pattern.
2) 4 jaw chuck. Hold the wheels so that the area where the spokes meet the rim runs concentrically. Also make sure the front face isn't wobbling.
These things can be done with a pointer and piece of modeling clay. Pick a surface that will be left behind after machining or an area where not much material will be coming off. Stick the clay and pointer to something stationary on your cross slide and bring the pointer up close to the predetermined surface. Rotate the wheel by hand and you will be able to see the wobble. This can be corrected by giving the wheel a tap in or out before final tightening of the chuck. Make sure you are holding on enough so that you can machine the wheel without it coming out of the chuck. There will be interrupted cuts made if and when you have counterweights so make sure the wheel is in there good. I like to have at least 1/4" inside the jaws. The chuck jaws with the little teeth are great to get a good grip.
3) Turn the face of the wheel. Referring to your drawing, keep watch on the distance between the face of your rim and the spokes and make sure you leave enough on to clean up the back side of the wheel.
3A) (if applicable)
Turn the counterweight face and diameter and the crank face.
4) Turn the tread area of the wheel staying about 1/16" full of the finished size and stay 1/16" or more away from the flange. Make sure you watch your chuck jaws and stay away from them a bit while machining the tread. Do this with a tool that has roughly the same radius on it as the flange fillet. This way you won't violate the flange radius. Machine the wheel and tread square at this time. This will give you something square to hold onto while turning the back of the wheel.
5) Drill, bore, and ream (if you desire) the axle hole before removing the wheel from the chuck.
This completes the front of your wheel except the tread and flange.
Steps 1-5 can be done on all of your wheels
6) 3 jaw chuck holding on the tread area. Machine the back of your wheels to the proper wheel thickness. If there is a hub in the center that protrudes out past the back of the flange, machine that too to the proper thickness.

Do step 6 on all of the wheels
7) Face plate with aluminum disc the same diameter as the tread of your wheel and having a pilot the same diameter of axle hole -.001". The face plate should be relieved in the center to accommodate a boss if there is one. Another disc the same diameter as the tread and with a center drill hole in the middle to match your live center. Bolt the aluminum disc to the face plate and indicate the pilot. Cut the aluminum disc face so it is true. Relieve the face of the disc in the center portion so that only the last 1/2" of diameter is actually where the wheel will sit. Slide the wheel onto the pilot. Place the second aluminum disc on the face of the wheel and using a live center, use the tail stock to apply pressure to the wheel. This will keep in against the faceplate and keep it from turning. Not much pressure is needed as you will only be taking light cuts.
8) Turn the outer flange diameter. This dimension should be about .360" larger than your tread diameter. This will remove the last amount of rough cast material so you can use a sharp finishing tool without the hard scale taking the edge off.
9) Using a tool with the proper fillet radius ground on it, machine the wheel tread diameter and flange thickness. Do this step on all wheels. Use stops and dials on the lathe to keep each wheel the same diameter and the flange thickness (.156 for 1 1/2" scale) the same on all wheels.
10) Set the compound to cut the 1 1/2 degree taper on the tread. Turn the compound dial all the way in so it hits the end of the travel. Using the same tool with the proper fillet radius, move the carriage and cross slide so that the radius of the tool is just touching the radius. Lock the carriage in place and set the dial on the cross slide to zero.This will be where the tool ends up when you are finished turning the taper. Bring the cross slide out so the tool is away from the tread. Screw the compound out so the tool is off the tread. bring in the cross slide a little at a time to remove more of the tread, using the compound as your longitudinal feed. Screw the compound fully in on the last pass (cross feed dial on zero) so the tool blends the tread to the radius. Do this to all the wheels.
11) Set the compound the cut the taper on the front of the flange. (10 degrees) Once again, turn the compound all the way in until it hits the end of the travel. Bring the cross slide and carriage up until the radius of the tool is touching the fillet radius. Lock the carriage in place and set the cross feed dial to zero. This is where the tool will end up at the end of the last pass on the flange. Bring your cross slide out and start cutting the taper on the flange using the compound screw as your feed, bringing the cross feed dial in a small amount with each pass until the dial reads zero.
This is the last pass. Turn your compound dial in until it reaches the end of the feed travel. Do this to all the wheels.
12) Set the compound to cut the taper on the back of the flange (10 degrees). On this side there is nothing to blend to. I cut the first wheel flange angle to the proper depth and lock the carriage in place. I set the zero on the cross feed dial use that as my reference for the remaing wheels. The angle cut should measure .17" in width from the outer flange diameter to where the angle ends on the back of the wheel. Do this on each wheel.
13) File or make a concave radius tool to blend both the inner and outer flange radii without taking anything off the outer diameter of the flange. It's about a 1/16" radius.


That's it. Your done.

Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 15:42:31 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Dwayne:
I much has I hate to say this but Roger-Cooke has a tool that will go in your lathe that will cut the wheel to the right shape. Then you turn the wheel with the small degree that is needed. The cutting tool cost about $20.00, and they come in different sizes.
Mike Looney

Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 07:51:54 -0500
From: "Thomas"

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Do you have an address for Roger-Cooke so a person can get the details and be able to order the tools that would be for the sizes of wheels one would want to make?
Thomas

Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 09:16:45 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Dwayne:
Here is his address and phone number.
Roger-Cooke Locomotive Works
271 Parsippany Road
Parsippany, NJ. 07054
973-887-0084
Mike Looney

Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 09:21:34 -0400
From: Ronald Thibault

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



Dwanyne;
Roger-Cooke sells one variant of the above that is better for lighter lathes (Atlas type). The form is wider, and you turn one side of the treadform, then move the carriage 0.060" (if I recall correctly), to form the other side. This puts less load on the lathe, and thus reduces chatter. Depending on how slow the lathe will turn, you may have to turn it by hand to eliminate chatter.

Ron Thibault
Warrenville, SC USA

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 02:32:09 +0000
From: "Roy Stevens"

Subject: Re: Turning wheels



This is an interesting subject, since I've just finished turning my first set of wheels from castings (though I have turned some wheels from steel blanks cut from 7" rod.) I found that the castings were close enough to round that I did not need a four jaw chuck, so I started by clamping them in with the tread side out, with as little of the wheel in the jaws as I dared (I cut a spacer to make this easier) Then I started by running in a cutting tool at the 2 1/2 deg taper as deep as the chuck would allow. Then I faced the wheel and drilled the axle hole. I did this to all eight wheels in short order.
Next I re-chucked the wheels with the three jaw chuck by the newly cut tread. I changed the tool to one that had the correct radius for the fillet (or would have if someone hadn't stolen my tool holder at work) and cut over to the point where the flange thickness was just right. Then I cut the 10 deg taper on each side of the flange, used the tool to knock down the edges of the flange, then finished the flange radius with a file. This was more time consuming than the first part of the set-up, and I found it took me about 15-20 minutes per wheel total time. I plan on getting that tool, it sounds like a real time saver.

Roy Stevens

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 18:42:48 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: Time's running out



Hello all,

next week I have to ship the speeder, or it will not arrive in time for the rumble north at Joshua Tree and Southern.

But now, with only a couple of day's ahead, it looks better than during the past weeks. The only problem will be, that I will not be able to run the speeder before shipping for a test. It will be the same as with my PCR #1, which made it maiden-run during the show in 1998 it was built for.

See the latest progress on my webpage, which actually is daily updated:

http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/speedere.htm

See you next month

Hube

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 13:11:35 -0400
From: Ronald Thibault

Subject: Re: Time's running out



Hubert;
Do you have any other pictures of the exhaust system? I have a 3 1/2" scale 4 wheel critter that I need to reroute the exhaust system in. The muffler is about at my knee when I run.

Ron Thibault
Warrenville, SC USA
http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 22:18:09 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



I have seen tons of rail car loads, that are semi trailers. I have seen a few for sale. I am looking to make my own. Esp the cab/tractor part.

If anyone happens to have a set of plans they can share, or know where a set of buildable scale plans can be aquired, please let me know.

In the past you all have been very helpful, I hope you can come thru with this request.

If all else fails, I live near a company that ships tons of stuff by truck, I will take me a tape measure, and a pad of paper and see about making my own plans based on some measurements, but who knows if it will be buildable, or stand up to any sort of use (I would _LOVE_ to make at least one cab, thats Radio controlled, and a few trailers that it could hook to and pick up/drop off, trackside).

Thanks to all,
Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 22:20:06 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Turning 1.5:" scale wheels... how???



There has been several people respond to this thread, to each, a big thanks. Between advice here and locally, I think I can tackle this project.

Thanks to all, and if someone happens to have a contact about that tool... even tho I dont own a lathe (its on my todo list), I would not mind aquring one.

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 19:39:07 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Dwayne,

Take a look at http://www.gardentrucking.com , but be prepared to drool.
There are other scales available.

Regards,

Jim Hoback
Sonora Short Line Ry.
Sonora, CA, U.S.A.

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 11:38:52 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Dwayne:
Why not just buy one from Mountain Car Company, they have the trailer and you can get them at about $200.00 plus shipping for the trailer. You are going to have a problem building a tractor with all the curves in the metal of a tractor, unless you build a yard tractor.
Mike Looney

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 11:45:44 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Jim,

You should ahve warned me stronger, I needed a towel... those products, outside of being the wrong scale (half the size I wanted... but gives me some ideas), and out of this world prices, is exactly what I was looking for. I contacted the company to see if they would sell working blueprints for said models, explaining that I would want to double the size and make it for my own railway.

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Baberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 11:49:37 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



HOnestly I was hoping to make this winter basement building projects, I have someone locally who forms metal, (when you can use a roller type machine to do it, smaller, more complex curves, I can handle myself, I have the tools and skill, I apprenticed as a blacksmith). I was more worried about the structure itself, and being able to pick it up with an overhead type crane (a longer term goal I would like to make, once I have a 'home track' of some form to work from, even if its not my own).

I have access to several of the mountian car trailers to make a blueprint from, and they are just basic boxes with decals really.Stamping the patterns on the sides is not going to be easy or fun... But I have an idea.....

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 12:11:56 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Dwayne:
I will tell you now that a lot of trailer had smooth sides, so if you make them that way you will save yourself a lot of work. The bracing for these trailer were on the inside, and they where made this way for less wind drag.
Mike Looney

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 19:11:20 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: Re: exhaust system



Hello Ron,

one of the photos on the speeder page shows the original muffler of Briggs&Stratton. This is the side, where the exhaust-fumes come out.

I removed the fence around the muffler, unscrewed the deflector-metal-sheet and used this part to produce a matching sheet with a hole centered. Into this hole, I silversoldered the new exhaust-pipe and lead them around through two 90 corners into the other direction. And the rest you can see on the photo of the exhaust-pipe.

Hope, this helps.

Hube

P.S.: As written, this isn't tested yet. The gas-engine will be running (hopefully) the first time at the TM-north-rumble at Joshua Tree & Southern.

Hubert
Moderator of the 7-plus-ngm - mailing list

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 14:26:22 -0400
From: Ronald Thibault

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Sounds like a great job for a mold and fiberglass.

Ron Thibault
Warrenville, SC USA

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:46:38 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Ya know, thats an idea I had not thought of, the bracing for lifting could easily be stock materials on the inside, and just make the outside fiberglass for looks... Now its been a while since I done any work in fiberglass, but sounds like it might be a winner....

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:50:04 -0400
From: Dwayne Miller

Subject: Allbany NY events???



Looks like I might be spending a weekend, a few hours from Albany New York this summer.

Date is flexible, anyone happen to know a Live steam event I could time it to visit? Just a local club run is enough, Just want to meet others and see new tracks. Heck a private invite from a track owner would work, I help work on several tracks here in Ohio, so my visit would not be all play...

Thanks,

Dwayne Miller
M D & S Railway,
Barberton, Ohio

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 23:55:20 EDT
From: excalibur5776@aol.com

Subject: Re: Plans for a 1/8th scale Semi Truck Cab and trailer???



Dwayne:
The trailer they use for the railroad are brace along the bottom with angle iron where they lift it. there are two places that they brace it so it can be lifted onto the train or ground. The first brace is where the landing gear is, and the second one is where the rear wheel are. The trailer just has sheet metal on the sides, and is brace on the inside like any trailer would be. Save the other for the tractor, and in most yard all you are going to have is a yard tractor, and they have right angle in the metal, and very little curves.
Mike Looney

Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 09:23:40 EDT
From: Jubilatede@aol.com

Subject: Re: Allbany NY events???



Lucky us! Any Live Steamer is welcome at the Adirondack Live Steamers just a bit east of Saratoga Springs, NY. We're pretty well hidden back in the woods so I shan't describe the route. If you are going to be in the east contact me off line at Jubilatede@aol.com or contact through Don Buesing as listed in the club directories in the hobby magazines. Spring meet is this coming weekend.

Blowing our own horn, I quote from an editorial in one of the hobbyzines declaring ALS plus one in California as the two best tracks in the country but that was before Train Mountain started to creep all over Oregon. We're still up there. The remarkanle R. VanWingen has visited a couple of times and should give an honest account of our spread.

Visited last Sat. for first time since return north. Much new stuff done - new Penna. truss bridge nearly complete (don't look too closely as track still supported by falsework) - and don't wear your dancing shoes as station addition and environs was just being graded. In the rain.

Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 18:02:38 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: Speeder finished / Shipping problems



Hello all,

the Speeder is finished and prepared to be shipped. Only the gauge has to be changed.

Sadly, today I got some bad informations regarding shipping.

So, I have a question:

Is their someone out their, who works for the custom-office or has knowledge about the actual laws?

If so, it would be nice, if you can view my questions under http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/custom.htm .

For all others, the latest pictures can be found under http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/speedere.htm

Thank you all

Hubert from Germany

Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 09:16:59 -0700
From: "Trevor Heath"

Subject: RE: Speeder finished / Shipping problems



Yes Hubert I do.

I've imported and exported loco's and motorcycles to and from the US

I'd guess you are having problems with the batteries rather than the loco or the gas engine.

But drop me a line and I'll see if I can help.

Regards

Trevor

Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 09:44:30 -0700
From: "Trevor Heath"

Subject: RE: Speeder finished / Shipping problems



Ok, Sorry I did not read down far enough.

I've decided to make this reply "public" as the information may be of use to others.

Customs:

Formally:

You need to bring the loco in under a T.I.B. (Temporary Import Bond) as you are returning it within a fixed time to Germany.

For the purposes of US Customs it will be classed as a TOY and as such is not subject to import duty in any case.

So the T.I.B is somewhat mute anyway.

Call it what it is, a TOY TRAIN you will be speaking their language.

Wood:

If you use a wooden crate the Department of Agriculture (D of A) will want to look at your crate on arrival. What they are looking for is wood boring insects. This is really no big deal. When I brought in the Headlight, Whistle and Builders plates from a QJ as excess baggage on my return from China. The D of A lady came over (there are always D of A at the airport because people insist on bringing live plants and fresh foods from other counties which is expressly prohibited) and dug into the crates with her Swiss Army Knife, and then just said "Ok fine" you can go.

You are correct though the crates were of greater interest than the goods inside. There was no import duty. Customs are reasonable people they are not after you and I. We all know what they are looking for. I've never paid import duty on train stuff.

Make a crate not a box, so people can see inside.

Choice of Carrier

What does the speeder weigh?

This is a very important question to advise of actual carrier choice.

I'll assume you are not shipping batteries.

TH

Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 23:08:36 -0500
From: "Bill Laird"

Subject: Meg Steam?



Anyone know the current status of Meg Steam and whereabouts of Dougal Hubner?

The web site listed in 4th edition catalog (about 2 years old), http://www.littleriverpress.com/megsteamx.html is no longer a valid address.

I did find a Meg Steam site at www.megsteam.com, but it did not look very current.

A friend of mine is interested in purchasing some Meg Steam cylinder castings and has been unable to get ahold of Dougal. My friend stated that Dougal's old telephone number is now answered by some women who "never heard of him".

Bill Laird
Canyon Lake, Texas

Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 06:00:17 -0500
From: "Curtis Hustace"

Subject: Re: Meg Steam?



Bill:

Last hear he could be reached at this email.

Dougal

meg_steam@intertrek.com

Telephone:

604-479-8375

Let me know if this is still correct.

Thx.

Curtis

Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 13:04:46 -0400
From: Larry Simoneau

Subject: Re: Meg Steam?



I have been communicating with Dougal for the last couple of months at:

meg_steam@intertrek.com

He has been very responsive via email.

The phone number listed in catalog #5 is 604-479-8575

Dougal said he would order cylinder castings and have them in stock by the end of May or so.

- Larry

Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:13:39 -0500
From: "Bill Laird"

Subject: Re: Meg Steam?



Thanks, Larry.

I have sent an e-mail to Dougal at that address. We will see how he responds.

Bill Laird
Canyon Lake, Texas

Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 20:55:35 -0000
From: "Ben Calcott"

Subject: Locomotive wheel spacing



Hi all,
I'm planning on building a 7 1/4" gauge locomotive and I have a few questions.
1) What is the maximum wheel base on a 0-4-0 engine? I'm looking at 540mm
2) Should I have air brake lines or just locomotive brakes?


I'm wanting to cutout the frames in the next few weeks as I have been collecting the parts I need over the past few months.

Ben

Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:19:47 -0700
From: "Matt"

Subject: Re: Locomotive wheel spacing



Hello,

Does anyone have drawings for a C&S mogul and a Westinghouse 10" x 10 5/8" single Stage Airpump.

Matt

Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:25:26 -0700
From: "Matt"

Subject: C & S MOGUL/AIR PUMP



Hello,

Does anyone have drawings for a C&S mogul and a Westinghouse 10" x 10 5/8" single Stage Airpump.

Matt

Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:16:47 +0100
From: "Hubert Wetekamp"

Subject: Oh happy day ;-)))



Hello all,

since this morning, 10.15 am Mideuropean Summertime, the speeder is via UPS on it's way to Los Angeles. After scaling the weight yesterday with my own equipment, we used this morning a professional scale at the plant, where my wife is working. The overall weight was 74.5 kg (~ 166 lbs), and with a limit of 70 kg for UPS, I had to reduce the weight. Gladly, I had planned from the beginning perhaps to remove the dc-engine as well as the alternator, and so it was not a major problem to remove the dc-motor (weight 10 kg ~ 22 lbs), and so, the overall weight was less than the allowed maximum.

Thank you very much to all, who replied to my call for help, and supported me with informations or only through their mailing.

Hope to see you on one of the layouts I'm visiting (Joshua Tree & Southern, Train Mountain, Bitter Creek & Western).

Hubert

http://www.7-plus-ngm.org/pcr/speedere.htm

Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:32:02 -0000
From: "dmmcomo"

Subject: Re: C & S MOGUL/AIR PUMP



Matt -

How detailed a set of drawings of the Mogul do you want, and do you have a particular era in mind?

I do not have drawings of the pump but I can supply castings for it.

Rudy van Wingen
Como Roundhouse Products

Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 16:33:31 -0000
From: "dmmcomo"

Subject: Re: C & S MOGUL/AIR PUMP



Matt -

Please contact me offline about the drawings and the pump castings.

Rudy van Wingen
Como Roundhouse Products

Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:14:38 -0400
From: "don@locoparts.net"

Subject: Re: C & S MOGUL/AIR PUMP



Matt

If you might be interested in a RTR KEIM 2-1/2" scale water or air pump contact me offline and I'll send you the photos and data. The water pump is $950 + $20 ship ; the air pump should be ready in about 3 months, $1025 + ship.

Check my web site...they may have been added by my webmaster by now but I'm not sure.