7+-NGM-logo The

7-Plus-NGM Digest June 2002

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 15:37:53 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: How many miles on average...

How many real miles did you put on your engine last year? And for thoes who have been around, how many miles did you put on your engines in one year ten years ago? Twenty years ago?

Nothing scientific, just rough estimates.

Why do I ask?

As club tracks get longer on average I would suspect that the average number of miles live steamers have their engines on the rails would also increase.

Thank you,

Curtis F.

Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:42:40 -0400
From: Robert Herronen

Subject: Re: How many miles on average...

Hi Curtis.

I won't have #20 together for years. One thing I noticed is that maybe the milage has not increased. People used to make more laps around but I think they might make fewer laps now. The engines require attention about the same distance travelled (working engines produce less ash in the ashpan as it goes up the stack to a greater degree.) You will need to oil and grease the same. And people can only bend over so long before they need to be off their equipment.

And here in the South (North Carolina) it gets hot and humid quickly. Older engineers tend to sit in the shade and let the crazy "pups" out on the tracks.

So I would be surprised if there was an increase in mileage travelled.

Will you be posting the results on a webpage somewhere? I'd be interested.

Just my thoughts. With them and 55 cents you can get a cup of coffee.

Robert Herronen

Rio Grande Southern R.R. of N.C.
(Pages out of date - to be updated soon...)

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 12:14:28 -0500
From: "Terry Waggenspack"

Subject: Journal box clearance

I am in the process of cutting my journal boxes. I could not get cast iron ones, so I built them out of 3x3" CRS.

What is the proper clearance between a journal box and the pedestals on a 1 scale engine? Should they be over cut and shimmed with brass to provide a smooth surface or to exactly center them? Any suggestions???


Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:22:39 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbray"

Subject: Re: Journal box clearance

I like to leave between .005" and .010" when building my locomotives. On the plans for my locomotive (RRSC CP173 4-4-0) they say to leave the jaws .030" oversize and shim until there is no bind with connecting the rods in place and .007" clearance using steel feeler gauge stock. The shimming is to make up for any discrepancies in the frame and journal box machining. Well, I was feeling cocky the day I made my locomotive running gear and decided just to leave .007" clearance between the jaws and the journal boxes. When I was machining all of the parts, I made sure everything critical was within .001 of nominal. By everything critical, I mean the axle holes were dead center in the journals, the jaws were machined while the frames were clamped together and both sets of jaws were machined in one setup without removing the frames from the machine, and, the connecting rods were machined to match the center to center spacing of the jaws. When I assembled everything for the first time, the wheels spun around with no binds at all (WHEW!!). I figured if worse came to worse, I could always machine the jaws a little wider and add shims.

Bruce Mowbray
TMB Manufacturing and Locomotive Works
1 1/2" Scale & 2 1/2" Scale (Narrow Gauge) Live Steamer

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:34:54 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbray"

Subject: Re: How many miles on average...

Although I have never actually counted the miles, I am one of those crazies that stays running as long as I can. I will start early and finish late. Give me the big dollar seat on a fine running locomotive and I will run until I can't see the water and pressure gauges. When I was at the Largo track in Florida for the winter meet, I ran a good friend's Allen Mogul from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM straight stopping only for water and coal and waiting for trains ahead of me to clear. I would say I put on about 20 miles in just that one afternoon.

Bruce Mowbray
TMB Manufacturing and Locomotive Works
1 1/2" Scale & 2 1/2" Scale (Narrow Gauge) Live Steamer

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 18:20:41 -0400
From: RichD

Subject: Re: Journal box clearance

You want them to fit the frame slots as close as possible without binding and still slide freely. No shims. The fit has a lot to do with the slop the rod bearings have to contend with, so the least amount of clearance, will mean a better running rod bearing.
This all assumes the wheels are in perfect quarter and the chassis is trammed, the boxes are bored dead center, etc, etc.
Another consideration is axle alignment on uneven track where there is frequently a twist. The rule here is the wheels should pass over a 1/4" high bump without binding, so your box flanges have to be radiused and the rod bearings have to have enough clearance to allow the angular displacement. However, this does not concern front to back fit of the boxes in the frame jaws.
Clear now? :-)

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:55:25 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Overalls


For those who may be interested, you can again obtain Oshkosh brand denim overalls via their web site. For quite a while they were not available in adult sizes. Check at oshkoshbgosh.com

Right now they are priced at $35. As far as I am concerned they are the superior brand. No connection, just a long time satisfied user.

Jim Hoback

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 20:53:31 -0400
From: Arno Martens

Subject: Re: Overalls


there are a few places where one can buy bib type overalls.
The problems is engineers jackets.


Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 18:04:46 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Re: Overalls


Depends on what you call an engineer's jacket. The 3/4 length denim type used to be available from the infamous Rolling Stock in Denver, CO. That is the outfit that ripped off our fellow list member for a couple of hundred dollars a few years ago. I had dealt with Rolling Stock for several years because they were one of the few places that stocked fitted engineer's caps. I recommended them to the list member and then Rolling Stock went under, involving a divorce among other problems I believe, leaving people hanging.

Anyway, a similar type jacket is made by Wrangler and is still available. I believe there are other work clothes suppliers that have that type of coat too. What is your definition of an engineer's jacket Arno?


Jim Hoback
Sonora Short Line Ry.
Sonora, CA, U.S.A.

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:31:30 -0400
From: Arno Martens

Subject: Re: Overalls


3/4, hickory striped.

Cheers, Arno

Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 21:18:14 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: Cylinder Castings question.

I have a hypothetical question reguarding prices of cylinder castings.

The question: On the market is a one-piece cylinder block (cylinders/saddle all one piece) for the 2.5" scale engine you want to built. Size is around 2.5" bore x 3.5" stroke. D-Valve. All ports cast in. The only plumbing needed is the steam pipes from the boiler going straight down into the top of the saddle. Material is Grey Iron. Their appearance is 100% prototypical.

What's the maximum that you would spend on a cylinder casting such as this? $250? $500? $1,000? $2,000?

Thank you,

Curtis F.

P.S. I am not doing product research. I have no plans to bring something like this onto the market. This is for a personal project.

Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 17:43:51 -0700
From: James Hoback

Subject: Re: Cylinder Castings question.

$500 to $700.

Jim Hoback
Sonora Short Line Ry.
Sonora, CA, U.S.A.

Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 17:09:06 -0000
From: "wsflco"

Subject: Re: Cylinder Castings question


Are you refering to what you would pay a foundry for a rough casting, or what you would pay a supplier? Such a casting (given the no. of cores and it's weight) would probably run in the neighborhood of $300.00 + the board setup fee at a decent foundry.

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 04:11:45 -0000
From: "dmmcomo"

Subject: Re: Cylinder Castings question.

In re. Chris Allan's response...

I say "if you are real lucky" not to mention that his reply assumes that you have a board mounted pattern and all the core boxes...

Otherwise, many many many more $$$$!

A good pattern and core boxes is not cheap..

I have been accused of price gouging for my castings when some ignorant soul finds out what I pay for the raw castings and has no knowledge of what I paid for design and production of the pattern(s) let alone the time and effort I put into research to make sure the product was as prototypically accurate as I could make it.

Can you imagine what it feels like to have invested many hundreds to thousands of dollars in research and patterns to have some ingnorant, selfish, thoughtless B-----D take a casting I have sold him to a foundry and have a copy made?

That is a sure way to insure that the original supplier will no longer be in business...

Rudy van Wingen
Como Roundhouse Products.

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:10:04 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: Re: Cylinder Castings question.

James, Chris, Rudy,

These cylinders would have been a short-run of 4 prototypes using a casting process that requires no cope, no drag, no cores, no board, but does require lots of money. The one-time-use patterns would cost me $2,000 to $2,500 each.

So cylinder block patterns for four engines would be $8,000 to $10,000. I'd be much wiser to put that money into match plate patterns and do it the old fashoned way. Then I can always make more.

Mind you that's just the cost for the patterns, not the casting, or what little of machining would be required.

Thank you guys for your time,

Curtis F.

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 02:13:16 -0000
From: "srcl_24"

Subject: Web Page

Hi 7 +'s. I want to call attention to our new domain name for the Sandy Ridge and Clear Lake Railway. You can find us at the following link.


Happy surfing
Tom Casper

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:04:59 -0600
From: "Mike Decker"

Subject: Video Commercial

Hi Folks:

I've just received a new shipment of Graham Whistler's British narrow gauge videos. These videos are in the U.S. NTSC format, and run 60 minutes each. I apologize for any duplicate posts.

The first video is "The Best of Miniature Railways". It features the 5" gauge Chichester Railway, Ian Allen's 7-1/4" gauge miniature style Great Cockrow Railway, the 7-1/4" gauge narrow gauge style Moors Valley Railway, the 10-1/4" gauge railway at Stapleford Park, and the 12-1/4" gauge Fairbourne Railway. My favorite is the Moors Valley, with its' ride-in cabs.

The second video is for 15" gauge fans. "Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway Experience" is the R&ER story from its' three-foot gauge beginnings through preservation. The highlights of this tape are a Spring Gala with visiting locos from the Bure Valley, Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch and other railways, and a cab ride on "River Mite".

The third tape is the 30" gauge "The Llanfair Train". This is Graham's second video on the Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway. The focus in this video is a re-creation of the goods (freight) trains which were the life's blood of the railway before preservation. Particularly interesting are the shunting (switching) operations.

The price for these videos is $29.95 each, plus $4.50 to ship one, and $2.00 for each additional. I can accept check, money order or PayPal.

Thank you,

Mike Decker

Decker's Trains
Rt. 1, Box 102-E
Hot Springs, SD 57747

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 21:20:12 -0700
From: "Daniel F. Morris"

Subject: 7.25" Hemsby Week Meet Pixs

Thanks to Tony Gosling Of The 7.25" Society I now have pixs of their Hemsby Week Meet in the U.K.
Looks like they had good weather along with a like wise turn out. Many of you that have ran at BCSME have met Mike Johns who is seen in one of the pixs.

then to Live Steaming In The Pacific Northwest and More!


Dan Morris

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 21:43:44 -0700
From: "Daniel F. Morris"

Subject: New Zealand 2004 Railway Rendezvous Tour Update

Today I have posted the latest information in regards to the New Zealand 2004 Railway Rendezvous. The information is in word doc form so it should be easy to download and read for those who are interested.


Dan Morris

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 04:58:29 -0000
From: "dmmcomo"

Subject: Re: Cylinder Castings question.

There may be another solution; contact me offline at dmmcomo@sprintmail.com.

Rudy van WIngen
Como Roundhouse Products

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 21:22:51 EDT
From: plumdalejunction@aol.com

Subject: Re: Web Page


I'm delighted to see your website up and running again ! We have all been waiting a long time !

Brian Critchley

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 05:12:11 -0000
From: "drs_rr"

Subject: Re: Web Page


Thanks for posting the link...I've missed checking in on the railroad the last few months.
The passanger car came out beautiful, the whole railroad is excellent.
Please keep updating the photos, and keeping us abreast of what new projects you all are working on.

Thanks again,

Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 19:30:59 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: Cumbers & Toltec Senic RR

The Cumbers & Toltec Senic RR is in some pretty dire straights right now. Their season was susposed to start a couple of weeeks ago, but the FRA shut down the line two days before the trains were susposed to start rolling.

Two points of trackage were not up to snuff and after the Boiler explosion in Ohio last year the FRA didn't want to take any chances. The line was completely shut down. The C&TS went full bore into the track and at one of the points tore out hundreds of feet of track, reworked the ground and relaid in less than two weeks. This would have effectivly opned up half the trackage to excursions. Then the Forrest Service came in a shut down not only the railroad but the work crews toiling away at the second point of track work.

With all the fires in Colorado right now the Forrest Service erred on the side of caution (unncesaary caution according to many).

At this point most of the C&TS employies have been laid off till further notice, but they're still going into work as voluniteers to accomodate what guests do arrive.

They're doing their damndest to say the least.

What the railroad is asking for is for people to buy tickets. It'll keep money flowing into the railroad and keep it alive.

Below is the offical website from which you can buy tickets, personally I bought a season pass, there's no way in the world I'll get to use it, but in ten years it could be worth something to show I supported the railroad. :-)

Give if you can, thank you and good day if you can't



Curtis F.

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 04:37:02 -0000
From: "dmmcomo"

Subject: Re: Cumbers & Toltec Senic RR

Curtis -

What a great idea! I have just purchased a Parlor Car Annual Pass to support the CATS through this terrible summer. If enough of us at least purchase a regular pass then at least the volunteers should be able to hold the line until next summer.

Colorado's Governor has already practically killed the summer tourist season by announcing that "The whole state of Colorado is on fire"; these added restrictions are bound to be a killing blow to an outfit that has never been "flush".

I for one want to preserve the line that I had the privilege of riding on during one of the last true "Color Caravans" from Alamosa to Silverton and back so that perhaps, time permitting, I may at least make the small portion of the remaining trip one more time in my lifetime!

Please send copies of this to your non-7+NGM friends so that they may have an opportunity to participate in saving this wonderful treasure...

Rudy van Wingen
Como Roundhouse Products

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:21:34 -0400
From: "Grice Dale (HT-EX)"

Subject: RE: Re: Cumbers & Toltec Scenic RR

I just purchased mine. Let's all get on track Couldn't resist the pun.


Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:38:30 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: Re: Truss Rod Question


On the two SPNG "A" frame gons I'm building I will be using 1/4" rod. The prototype used the typical 1 1/4" diameter rod, which is .26" at scale.

1/4" will look right and be more than strong enough to do it's job.


Curtis F.

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:45:05 +1000
From: "George Paxon"

Subject: RE: Truss Rod Question

We use 1/4 inch steel rod for ours down here in Australia. We then buy commercial 3/16 inch turnbuckles, drill them out with a 1/4 tap drill, and retap for 1/4 inch left and right hand. Results is a very scale looking truss rod assembly.
Geo. a Paxon.

Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 00:58:13 -0000
From: "Ramcharger7887"

Subject: Shay engine

I am makeing plans to build an early version of a Shay Engine in 2 1/2" or 3" scale. Does any one know of a vender which has 15" gauge Shay trucks that are made and ready to install or can be built from their Kits. I would need two, four wheel trucks with the gearing, the u-joints, and drive shafts for 15" gaurge and two trucks with gearing for 7 1/2" gauge, so I can make it convertable to run on both the 15" or the 7 1/2" track. The wheel Diameter of about 6" to 6 1/2" should be about right. Thanks for any info you may have.

Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:38:53 EDT
From: bgwmoxie@aol.com

Subject: Re: Shay engine

To Whom It May Concern.....
7-1/2" to 15" gauge.....Dont You think thats a bit of a jump???
15" gauge is so much more heavier......
I would think, one would pick one or the other....


Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:20:23 -0700
From: Allen Lee Dobney

Subject: Rail Bender

I am looking for plans or other information on an easy to build rail bender for 1" rail.


Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:56:56 EDT
From: BJWRR2@aol.com

Subject: Free For Sale & want ads

Those interested in free for sale or want ads in the Guide to Narrow Gauge Railroads summer newsletter please let me know at BJWRR2@aol.com. Photos, info, and contact information for full ads...or plain text ads availible.

Equipment larger than 7-1/2" but smaller than Standard Gauge only, please. Park trains, 36"/42" narrow gauge, live steam, etc. Parts, support services, or equipment all welcome.

Thanks and Happy Rails,
Ed Kelley
Guide to Narrow Gauge Railroads

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 05:58:13 -0500
From: "Thomas"

Subject: Re: Shay engine

You are correct. I am building one in 7 1/2" gauge which will also run as narrow gauge on 4 3/4" track. This is a more practical size, but I want to build one for 15" gauge track as well. I guess it will be in 3" scale, if I can fine the trucks. Thomas

Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:32:05 -0500
From: "srcl24"

Subject: srclry responce

Thanks Dave. I told Mel to keep up the good work.
He needs to get the camera over and take a shot of the new lettering on the Caboose. It is really great . Our vinal cutter is really neat for making lettering. It was worth the money.


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:54:55 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbray"

Subject: Re: Rail Bender

Do you have access to a machine shop and a supply of materials like aluminum plate? I could whip up a crude drawing of my simple rail bender. Here's a piture of it in the mean time.

Bruce Mowbray
TMB Manufacturing and Locomotive Works
1 1/2" Scale & 2 1/2" Scale (Narrow Gauge) Live Steamer

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:55:22 -0400
From: Robert Herronen

Subject: Re: Rail Bender


What powers your rail bender?

Robert Herronen
Rio Grande Southern R.R. of N.C.

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 09:04:17 EDT
From: bgwmoxie@aol.com

Subject: Re: Shay engine

Do you have a 15" gauge track near you?

Where are you located....
I reside in New Hampshire....
There was a gentleman in Norwood Mass...
That had a preety big collection of 12" and 15" gauge equipment with a dual gauged track around his house, on an acre.
I stopped by there recently to see if he was interested in selling a 12" set...
But the house was on the markety and he said everything was already sold.....
He got a lot more than he had wanted a few years ago...$ money wise...

Chris Sylvester

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 10:05:02 -0400
From: "Bruce Mowbray"

Subject: Re: Rail Bender Power

I just push the rail thru by hand. My bender was origionally made to bend 5/8" square steel stock into 4' diameter hoops and when doing that I need to use a socket on the hex on the center roller shaft. This is not necessary when making 40' radius bends in aluminum rail. Once set, I push the rail thru and out comes rail with the proper radius. Takes about 5 seconds to bend a 10' length of rail.

Bruce Mowbray
TMB Manufacturing and Locomotive Works
1 1/2" Scale & 2 1/2" Scale (Narrow Gauge) Live Steamer

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 21:45:39 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: Re: 15" Gauge Shay engine


Get ahold of Greg Robinson of Grandscale's Quarterly Magazine he always has his ear to the ground for suppliers of 15" gauge equipment.


Curtis F.

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:05:38 -0500
From: "Thomas"

Subject: Re: Shay engine

I am helping build a 15" gauge track about 45 miles from where I live. If all works out ok, we may also put in a duel gauge track with it to have a 12" gauge for those that run 12" engines. This track (the 15" gauge for now) will be in the Pontiac, Illinois area. Thomas

Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:35:35 -0400
From: "Casy Jones"

Subject: (unknown)

Is there anybody out there wanting to buy some 12" Ottaway equipment?
I have two locomotives without boilers, tenders, and three cars. One chassis runs on air and the other is partially disassembled. Am open to offers before I list on E-bay.

Jim Gould
Ann Arbor, MI 734-663-0046

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:53:21 -0500
From: "srcl24"

Subject: Re: Digest Number 566 Shay question

Not if he builds it to 3 inch scale. We use 3 3/4 inch scale and plan on converting a 12 inch gauge shay to run on our railroad. It is built to 4 inch scale. He may find that aluminum rail may not like his weight.
We use steel so don't worry.

Tom Casper

Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:42:53 -0400
From: "Hugh Cain"

Subject: Re: (unknown)

Do you have any photos of your collection ?
I have been toying with the idea of getting into something that I can ride on. Thanks,

Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:31:05 -0500
From: "Ronald Koehler"

Subject: Re: (unknown)

Could you send me photos and additional information. It would be best to send it personally to: ron-koehler@msc.net



Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:57:55 -0400
From: Arno Martens

Subject: Re: (unknown)

I forwarded your post to the current address of livesteamers@loganact.com.
The UWI server has not been used for about a year.

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:37:57 -0000
From: "rainbowsat"

Subject: Building Bigger & Fitchburg Northern Cab


What are your thoughts on cosmetically building 1.5" scale bigger to about 2" scale? I am not a rivet counter, I would just like to know what I would be violating in scale purposes.

Now for my second Question. Can anybody out there with a Fitchburg Northern or a set of plans give me just simple demensions of the cab?Thanks for any input.

Take Care & Happy Steaming

Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 10:46:29 -0700

Subject: Re: Building Bigger & Fitchburg Northern Cab

The key element in my response to the question you posed is what do you want? You, from your earlier postings probably are aware that in this hobby, what is considered correct, ranges all the way from museum piece replicas to bash it together to get on the track and have fun while you are doing it. Generally speaking I feel that beauty is in the eyes of the beholder and if the beholder is the builder then others should not necessarily speak out unkindly. I am not a rivet counter either, but early on I found that I like a certain amount of detail to make it nice.

Size, go for whatever you enjoy building and what is physically allowable on traditional tracks if the loco or car is run on tracks other than just your own. I have gone to 2 1/2" scale for a number of reasons but for many that is not an option nor desirable. In retrospect I sure wish I realized what I was doing when I spent fourteen years building my Mini Lucky 7. The late Don Young was a fantastic model designer but in my mind 1 1/2" scale was/is too small for the two footer it was in full size. On the other hand 3 1/2" scale for the Maxi Lucky 7 was too large, as comments on this 7plusgroup have noted. I wish I would have done something in between. Such decisions only brings up other issues like where does one get such odd size castings and such?

Proportion is the key to growing the scale in my mind and your statement "cosmetically building" to a larger scale is right on. As I may have commented on this site before, I like to make full size cardboard elevation drawings so that I might visually see what growth (scale-up) will really look like when I go larger. I also ask a few others to share their views on my cardboard mockup of sorts. I'm not really oblivious to what others think but it is important for personal satisfaction that I'm not dong something radically wrong. Is this group thinking? In the long term I feel that it is always important to think of value, and a scale-up well done certainly has more value than a scale-up job not done well.

Good luck on scaling up any project you want to do so on.

Doug from Seattle

Date: Fri, 04 Jan 1980 16:07:25 -0800
From: Greg & Susan Robinson

Subject: Re: 15" Gauge Shay engine

Thomas / Curtis,

Sorry for the delay in responding. I've been out of the office, a dear uncle just lost his fight with cancer.

I don't know of any 15" Shay trucks for sale. None of the manufacturers have anything "off the shelf". I know of a number of 15" gauge Shays in existence, none for sale. As Ken Keagy mentioned in his interview in "Big Little Railways Cont." a Shay truck, if built very prototypically is a very complicated thing. But some builders have been able to start with the wheels and gears available to them "off the shelf" and design a good looking, but "freelance" truck around these parts. Not having built one myself, I can only repeat what I've been told.

All the Best,

The Grand Scales Quarterly

Robinson & Associates
P.O. Box 8953,
Red Bluff, CA 96080
phone 530-527-0141
fax 530-527-0420

Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 16:41:18 -0500
From: "Rick White"

Subject: Re: Re: 15" Gauge Shay engine

Another possibility for a 15 inch gauge Shay truck is looking at what Richard Ulin (Ulin Locomotive Works - 1160 Lilac St. Broomfield, CO 80020. (303) 466-8241. - No e-mail and no computer) did in 2.5 inches to the foot for West Side Lumber Company Shays 14 and 15. These are very good looking trucks with an off the shelf gear. If you are doing 5 inch to the foot for 15 inch gauge, these should scale up well. Or you might find that Richard might do that for you since he is a builder for others as long as it is scale and complicated and makes him some profit.

Rick White

Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 14:17:49 -0500
From: "Thomas"

Subject: 15" gauge Shay turcks

I thank you all for the helpful suggestions, advise, and places to check for 15" gauge Shay trucks. As soon as we get the track completed, and the Crown engine on it, I will then have some time to pursue the making of the 15" trucks. Thomas

Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 01:41:16 -0000
From: "cal_ng_nut"

Subject: 2.5" scale 26" (5.42") Denver Giffenth wheels


Who has the best castings for 2.5" scale 26" (5.42" diameter) Denver Giffenth wheels? Does anyone make them out of cast steel?

Actually the same question again but for knuckle couplers now. :-)
Preferably ones that are a nice 1910s - 1920s style and don't look like over sized 1.5" scale 1940s couplers.

I should probably also ask about brake wheels while I'm at it. :-)

I'm not looking for prices (thoe that would be nice) so much as personal opinion of what looks good/accurate. E-mail me directly if you like. CarsonColorado @ Earthlink.net

Thank you all for your time,

Curtis F.

Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:43:48 -0000
From: "wsflco"

Subject: Re: Shay engine

Try contacting Sean Bautista at Hillcrest Shops
He is open to building new things, and has access to individuals with lots of Shay knowledge.
Stay safe,

Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:59:24 -0500
From: "Rick White"

Subject: Comanche & Indian Gap Railroad Spring Meet Photos

Live Steamers,
Please see http://home.att.net/~rick-white/ for some photos from the Comanche & Indian Gap 2002 Spring Meet and the 2002 Spring Fling.
If you have some names for the people who are not named in the file name, please let me know and I can update the file names to include the names you supply.
When you open the file, select a roll and you will get thumbnails of the photos. You can click on the first photo and then get a larger photo. From there you can click on the right arrow and go through the photos. For some older live steam photos, see the list below my name.

Rick White